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Routes in Eagle Lake Cliff

Barney Rubble T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beak, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blockbuster T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Buster Brown T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Changeling T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crackula T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight Simulator T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hairline T A4-5 X
Kingfisher T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Learn to Fly S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Master of Disaster T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nagual, aka: Moonflower, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Off The Wall S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perch, Right, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Quest for Glory T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Seams to Me T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Separated Reality T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Space Truckin' T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Space Walk T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Thrust is a Must T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trust is a Must T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unkown Chimney S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wild at Heart S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad
FA: D. Frixbee and friends
Page Views: 2,593 total, 27/month
Shared By: Andy Liu on Jan 30, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Crux pulling through a bulge on thin finger tips with thin feet. Easy to toprope after climbing Space Truckin'.

Location

Starts left of Space Truckin' and finishes same as Space Truckin'.

Protection

Cams: 2 each .4-1.25", 1 each 1.5-3"

Photos

Mike Bonvino
Nevada City, CA
 
Mike Bonvino   Nevada City, CA
 
Super fun move variations. This climb has it all. * * * *
Bolted anchors up top Aug 22, 2016
jplaut
 
jplaut  
 
The crux for me was definitely getting up to and over the roof. I had to pull some awkward offwidth/stem moves to get to the ledge under the roof, then some powerful lieback/jam moves to get over. Once over the roof, though, this route it fantastic. Great steep jamming to a double crack to a dihedral. One of my favorites at the crag, great for running laps on. Sep 16, 2013
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
Before and after the bulge felt like the crux to our party. Pulling into the stance before the roof is surprisingly difficult and I used several small C3s to get my first pieces.

The rest of the route pros up great with small to mid-size pieces up to #1 or #2 Camalots. The onsight crux was hanging onto slightly rattly finger and thin hand jams after the roof.

Current to this description, a slung block rap anchor is located at the meeting point of the Quest for Glory and Space Truckin' cracks. If you ignore this invitation you can continue on with 3.5" - 4" pro into a 5.8 extension to the two climbs ending at a bolted rap anchor. Be cautious if you only have a 60m rope and view the Space Truckin' route comments to get the full dish on rapping/TRing these routes. Sep 4, 2011