Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: McNamara
Page Views: 886 total · 10/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Nov 20, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Hard to believe this appealing looking steep hand crack wasn't climbed until the early 2000s!

This crack gets on you right away as the angle kicks back and the crack pinches down to mega thin hands before opening into a 4" or so pod that presents some difficulties. Gear can be crispy through here so take care, maybe double up in the solid crack below. Pulling through and up into the lower angle handcrack above sees the difficuly ease.

From the top of the little tower you'll see you're only halfway done with the route. Set some gear, sling it long and step off left across the face, targeting the first of a three bolt line. The slab shouldn't be a problem if you pulled the low crux, and it does take some small nuts and cams to supplement the bolts.

Location

On the corner of the block before you get up to the Crackula/Buster Brown wall. Just past that bolted chimney and the Off the Wall pinnacle.

Protection

Standard rack. 3 bolts on the route, bolted lower off anchor

Photos

- No Photos -
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.11a
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.11a
I tried to call this thing .10d after I did it but just got a look of disgust from a long time Eagle Lake climber. Must have just been having a good day. Nov 20, 2011
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
I remember that! I'm still more on your side than his. Nov 30, 2011
abandon moderation
Tahoe
5.10c
abandon moderation   Tahoe
5.10c
I found this similar in style to Sanitation Crack (5.10b/c) at Snowshed, but slightly easier. Both my partner and I couldn't reconcile the 11a rating in the Reid guidebook. Jul 25, 2018