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Routes in Eagle Lake Cliff

Barney Rubble T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beak, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blockbuster T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Buster Brown T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Changeling T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crackula T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight Simulator T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hairline T A4-5 X
Kingfisher T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Learn to Fly S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Master of Disaster T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nagual, aka: Moonflower, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Off The Wall S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perch, Right, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Quest for Glory T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Seams to Me T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Separated Reality T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Space Truckin' T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Space Walk T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Thrust is a Must T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trust is a Must T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unkown Chimney S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wild at Heart S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: McNamara
Page Views: 755 total, 10/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Nov 20, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Hard to believe this appealing looking steep hand crack wasn't climbed until the early 2000s!

This crack gets on you right away as the angle kicks back and the crack pinches down to mega thin hands before opening into a 4" or so pod that presents some difficulties. Gear can be crispy through here so take care, maybe double up in the solid crack below. Pulling through and up into the lower angle handcrack above sees the difficuly ease.

From the top of the little tower you'll see you're only halfway done with the route. Set some gear, sling it long and step off left across the face, targeting the first of a three bolt line. The slab shouldn't be a problem if you pulled the low crux, and it does take some small nuts and cams to supplement the bolts.

Location

On the corner of the block before you get up to the Crackula/Buster Brown wall. Just past that bolted chimney and the Off the Wall pinnacle.

Protection

Standard rack. 3 bolts on the route, bolted lower off anchor

Photos

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Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
I remember that! I'm still more on your side than his. Nov 30, 2011
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
I tried to call this thing .10d after I did it but just got a look of disgust from a long time Eagle Lake climber. Must have just been having a good day. Nov 20, 2011