Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Chris McNamara, Todd Offenbacher
Page Views: 396 total · 10/month
Shared By: Mike McL on Aug 22, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Start is the same as Barney Rubble. Stem through an awkward steep section down low. Traverse left about mid way (Barney Rubble continues straight up here in a wide crack) on some hollow flakes to the steep right facing stemming and jamming corner. Some of the rock in the middle of this climb isn't terribly confidence inspiring, which I docked a star for, but nothing is obviously loose. Continue up the steep corner. Climb through a steep hanging tooth feature on thin hands (crux) to bolts/hooks at the top. A 70 m rope works great. Not 100% sure if you can lower with a 60m. Be cautious with a 60 (like many routes at this cliff).

Lots of variety on this one.

Location

Left of Space Truckin' and Quest for Glory is a small dark corridor. There is a large flat rock near the base. Barney Rubble is the straight up wide crack. The Beak shares the same start but traverses left on some hollow flakes to a steep corner and climbs through a fairly obvious hanging tooth feature.

Protection

Standard rack from green alien/blue metolius to #3 camalot. Nothing bigger than a #3 needed. Heavy on the thin hands sizes.

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Vlad S
 
Vlad S  
 
The 11d bolted start variation is excellent involving a short boulder problem with the crux being a distinct very reachy move off of a small slopy crimp. Sep 28, 2015
Lurker
Truckee, CA
Lurker   Truckee, CA  
No offense to Chris or Todd but there's no way this line went unnoticed and unclimbed for 30 years. Jun 8, 2016
Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
 
Joe Forrester   Palo Alto
 
Easy to TR with a 60 Jul 4, 2016
The direct start makes The Beak a completely independent line from bottom to top. It can easily be TR'd and has cool interesting hard moves on an arete Feb 7, 2018
Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
  5.10b/c
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
  5.10b/c
The crack felt soft for 10d...so if it is around your limit don't hesitate to lead it! Solid jamming and great pro. Jul 9, 2018