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Routes in Shining Wall
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Banana Belt T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Beginner's Luck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cloudwalker T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cold Hand of Technology T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dancing in the Lion's Jaw P1 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Domino Effect T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Extinction S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Firing Line T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fits and Starts T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gym Rats from Hell T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lord of the Rings T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Paleontologist T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Playing with Fire T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Plywood Jungle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rainman S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Red Scare S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Shining, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Yeoman's Work T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 75 ft (23 m) |
| GPS: | 45.39028, -122.45695 |
| FA: | Wallace, Olson, McGown, 12/88; extension? |
| Page Views: | 1,495 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Micah Klesick on Nov 7, 2017 |
| Admins: | Roberta Zouain, Nate Ball |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure
Details
The park closes on February 1st and remains closed until July 15th to protect nesting peregrine falcons. Their annual nesting spot is on the Shining Wall, though they can be heard year-round. Please respect the closure and DO NOT CLIMB AT MADRONE WALL BETWEEN FEB 1st AND JULY 15th. Updates to the status of the park will posted on Clackamas County Park's website - clackamas.us/parks/madronew… - and on the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee facebook page - facebook.com/madronewall/.
Description
This line was rated 5.11c(R) in the Olson guide, maybe because of the terrifying 1/4 bolts that snapped as soon as we tried to remove them? It now sports new SS bolts and a 40' extension to the top of the cliff, and certainly isn't R rated, and its also not 5.11c, more like 5.11a at most.
Climb up the slot to the first, bolt, placing a cam there if desired. Then follow fun and slightly sloping edges to a thin, one move crux. Follow the good edges up to an overhang, and pull though on good jugs to the sweet finger crack and stem and jam your way to the anchor. Really fun route, inspite of a little dirt in the upper half.
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