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Lord of the Rings
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Avg: 2 from 32
votes
Routes in Shining Wall
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Banana Belt T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Beginner's Luck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cloudwalker T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cold Hand of Technology T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dancing in the Lion's Jaw P1 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Domino Effect T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Extinction S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Firing Line T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fits and Starts T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gym Rats from Hell T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lord of the Rings T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Paleontologist T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Playing with Fire T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Plywood Jungle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rainman S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Red Scare S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Shining, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Yeoman's Work T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 45.39028, -122.45695 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,381 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Paul L on Nov 28, 2017 |
| Admins: | Roberta Zouain, Nate Ball |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure
Details
The park closes on February 1st and remains closed until July 15th to protect nesting peregrine falcons. Their annual nesting spot is on the Shining Wall, though they can be heard year-round. Please respect the closure and DO NOT CLIMB AT MADRONE WALL BETWEEN FEB 1st AND JULY 15th. Updates to the status of the park will posted on Clackamas County Park's website - clackamas.us/parks/madronew… - and on the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee facebook page - facebook.com/madronewall/.
Description
Start with some stemming, jamming and/or easy lie-backing up the crack until it ends and the climb trends right along flakes, blocks and edges to a large ledge with shared anchor midway through Lion's Jaw. Some of the blocks in the middle are a bit chossy and some small loose rocks on the ledge, but this section is fairly easy and there is pro to be found before and just after.
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