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Routes in (5) Shining Wall

Banana Belt T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Beginner's Luck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cloudwalker T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cold Hand of Technology T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Domino Effect T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Firing Line T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fits and Starts T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gym Rats from Hell T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lord of the Rings T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paleontologist T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Playing with Fire T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Plywood Jungle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rainman S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Red Scare S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Shattered Dreams T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shining, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Yeoman's Work T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: McGown, Nakahira, 3-89
Page Views: 266 total · 22/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure Details

Description

This is barely a trad route if you stop at the first anchor shared with Extinction. Climb the brief hand crack to a low ledge, then pull through the pumpy face with good stances to another ledge. The anchor listed here in the Olson book is gone, so continue up and left across the face. A tough, reachy move gets you off the deck, and a slight runout above the fourth bolt gains the 2" crack that takes you to the anchors. There isn't an anchor on the ledge above so stop here unless you intend to continue to the top of the cliff.

If you do this, you can make a strenuous pull onto the "falcon ledge" and then top out via the 5.10- crack on the left side, but be prepared for some grunge, poison oak, and a tree belay.

Location

The "main deck" of the Shining Wall. Starts behind the pointy boulder, straight up from the low ledge.

Protection

4 bolts, one 3" cam, anchor with mussy hooks for lowering... bring more cams/nuts to 1.5" if you intend to top out

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10-
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10-
If you do accidentally pull onto the "falcon ledge" and realize (as apparently many have in the last few days) that there isn't an anchor on this ledge, you will be in for a very sketchy down-climb to the Extinction anchor.

I highly recommend you simply lower from this anchor and NOT pull up onto the ledge. Oct 29, 2017
jrb
Washougal, WA
  5.10-
jrb   Washougal, WA
  5.10-
Why was the anchor moved? In my opinion moving it removed one of the cruxes and changed the climb. Dec 10, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10-
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10-
It was moved at the request of Fish & Wildlife folks who didn't want climbers accessing the ledge that the falcons nest on. We'll see what happens this spring but in the meantime you can still pull onto the ledge and then top-out. Dec 10, 2017
jrb
Washougal, WA
  5.10-
jrb   Washougal, WA
  5.10-
Cool, thanks for the info Nate. Dec 11, 2017

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