Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Wallace, Olson, McGown, Dykstra, 1-89
Page Views: 94 total · 8/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Jan 12, 2018
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure Details

Description

This route will probably be done more often as a 10b rather than the original 11c. To do it this way, start as for The Shining, climbing the face for two bolts - add a long sling to the second. At the blocky section before the ledge, cut hard right to another bolt before getting to the crack.

The original start climbs a thin seam next to a clump of madrone trees. A stick-clip is recommended. Stem off the tree as high as you can then grab a hold way off to the left to get situated. Far-off jugs, crack technique, and a sweet undercling get you to a stance with another bolt. One final thin sequence takes you up to where the two options join.

Climb up the thin crack with features to either side. Small nuts are essential through this section. Step right and then follow the thin layback crack up to the bulge. Stem out and use cool holds at the lip to pull up over it and onto the slab above. From this stance, follow the hand crack up to where you can cut right to the anchor shared with Banana Belt.

Location

Right side of the main Shining Wall area, right of the large boulder, near a clump of madrone trees

Protection

3 bolts, gear to 3", anchor with rap rings

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10
Bring small nuts or tiny cams (0.1 X4) for the beginning of the crack above the bolts! Nov 16, 2018