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Routes in (5) Shining Wall

Banana Belt T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Beginner's Luck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cloudwalker T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cold Hand of Technology T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Domino Effect T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Firing Line T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fits and Starts T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gym Rats from Hell T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lord of the Rings T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paleontologist T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Playing with Fire T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Plywood Jungle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rainman S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Red Scare S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Shattered Dreams T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shining, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Yeoman's Work T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Wallace, Olson, McGown, Dykstra, 1-89
Page Views: 53 total · 6/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Jan 12, 2018
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure Details

Description

This route will probably be done more often as a 10b rather than the original 11c. To do it this way, start as for The Shining, climbing the face for two bolts. At the blocky section before the ledge, cut hard right to another bolt before getting to the crack.

The original start climbs a thin seam next to a clump of madrone trees. A stick-clip is recommended. Hard pulls and crack technique gets you to a stance with another bolt, and a tricky sequence to the jugs at the horizontal. The two options join here.

Climb up the thin crack with features to either side. It eventually widens and breaks through a bulge. The crack opens up for solid gear before pulling this crux. Above, climb the slabby crack and step right to the anchor shared with Banana Belt.

Location

Right side of the main Shining Wall area, right of the large boulder, near a clump of madrone trees

Protection

2-3 bolts, gear to 1.5" including tiny cams and an optional 3" cam, anchor with rap rings

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