Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Wayne Wallace, Tim Olson, 10-88
Page Views: 83 total · 7/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Jan 12, 2018
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure Details

Description

This route is quite the spicy adventure for now.

Step off the boulder, plugging small gear, and pull up to a stance. You'll have to make another hard awkward move with the possibility of a ground-fall before you can get to a better stance and decent gear. Climb through horizontal breaks and around some vegetation. Feather in some funky gear and step right at a bulge with a bush. Once on the edgy slab, follow the bolts up to a brief dihedral. Mantel awkwardly onto a dirt-covered ledge with tragic fall potential.

Once on the ledge, finesse your way over the dirt mound and stem past the seam until it opens up for gear. Don't get sucked into the slot; keep your eyes out left for the jagged crack. Step left at the jumbly mess or punch it straight through the hand/finger crack (not 5.7). Scramble up the slab to the anchor in the corner.

Location

Left side of the Shining Wall main area, above an alder bush growing beneath a big undercut in the wall base of the wall

Protection

Gear to 2", 2 bolts, anchor with rap rings

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.9 R
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.9 R
This route is probably best avoided until it gets a good scrubbing (including shoveling off the dirt mound) and a few more bolts added. I tried leading it today and nearly took a grounder from above the first move and then bailed after scoping the mantel onto the dirt-covered ledge (nope!). Nov 10, 2018