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Routes in (5) Shining Wall
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Banana Belt T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Beginner's Luck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cloudwalker T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cold Hand of Technology T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dancing in the Lion's Jaw P1 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Domino Effect T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Extinction S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Firing Line T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fits and Starts T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gym Rats from Hell T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lord of the Rings T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Paleontologist T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Playing with Fire T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Plywood Jungle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rainman S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Red Scare S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Shining, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Yeoman's Work T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Wayne Wallace, Tim Olson, 10-88 |
| Page Views: | 847 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Nate Ball on Jan 12, 2018 |
| Admins: | Roberta Zouain, Kristin Tippey, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure
Details
The park closes on February 1st and remains closed until July 15th to protect nesting peregrine falcons. Their annual nesting spot is on the Shining Wall, though they can be heard year-round. Please respect the closure and DO NOT CLIMB AT MADRONE WALL BETWEEN FEB 1st AND JULY 15th. Updates to the status of the park will posted on Clackamas County Park's website - clackamas.us/parks/madronew… - and on the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee facebook page - facebook.com/madronewall/.
Description
This route is quite the spicy adventure for now.
Step off the boulder, plugging small gear, and pull up to a stance. You'll have to make another hard awkward move with the possibility of a ground-fall before you can get to a better stance and decent gear. Climb through horizontal breaks and around some vegetation. Feather in some funky gear and step right at a bulge with a bush. Once on the edgy slab, follow the bolts up to a brief dihedral. Mantel awkwardly onto a dirt-covered ledge with tragic fall potential.
Once on the ledge, finesse your way over the dirt mound and stem past the seam until it opens up for gear. Don't get sucked into the slot; keep your eyes out left for the jagged crack. Step left at the jumbly mess or punch it straight through the hand/finger crack (not 5.7). Scramble up the slab to the anchor in the corner.
Step off the boulder, plugging small gear, and pull up to a stance. You'll have to make another hard awkward move with the possibility of a ground-fall before you can get to a better stance and decent gear. Climb through horizontal breaks and around some vegetation. Feather in some funky gear and step right at a bulge with a bush. Once on the edgy slab, follow the bolts up to a brief dihedral. Mantel awkwardly onto a dirt-covered ledge with tragic fall potential.
Once on the ledge, finesse your way over the dirt mound and stem past the seam until it opens up for gear. Don't get sucked into the slot; keep your eyes out left for the jagged crack. Step left at the jumbly mess or punch it straight through the hand/finger crack (not 5.7). Scramble up the slab to the anchor in the corner.
Photos
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