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Gym Rats from Hell
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.5 from 4
votes
Routes in Shining Wall
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Banana Belt T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Beginner's Luck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cloudwalker T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cold Hand of Technology T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dancing in the Lion's Jaw P1 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Domino Effect T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Extinction S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Firing Line T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fits and Starts T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gym Rats from Hell T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lord of the Rings T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Paleontologist T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Playing with Fire T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Plywood Jungle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rainman S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Red Scare S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Shining, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Yeoman's Work T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 45.39028, -122.45695 |
| FA: | Wayne Wallace, Robert McGown, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 1,104 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Nate Ball on Nov 7, 2017 · Updates |
| Admins: | Roberta Zouain, Nate Ball |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure
Details
The park closes on February 1st and remains closed until July 15th to protect nesting peregrine falcons. Their annual nesting spot is on the Shining Wall, though they can be heard year-round. Please respect the closure and DO NOT CLIMB AT MADRONE WALL BETWEEN FEB 1st AND JULY 15th. Updates to the status of the park will posted on Clackamas County Park's website - clackamas.us/parks/madronew… - and on the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee facebook page - facebook.com/madronewall/.
Description
You'll likely want to belay from the trail. Start straight up from the tree root with small gear and clip a bolt before reaching the stellar but short hand crack. Jam this up to a funky move onto the ledge. From this restful stance, pull small edges up the vertical face. This is a thin, exciting sequence. Don't get sucked left at the last bolt. Pull onto the ledge and walk gingerly to the Beginner's Luck anchors.
Note: This route is much safer to lead than top-rope due to the potential swing after unclipping the last lead bolt.
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