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Routes in (5) Shining Wall

Banana Belt T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Beginner's Luck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cloudwalker T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cold Hand of Technology T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Domino Effect T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Firing Line T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fits and Starts T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gym Rats from Hell T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lord of the Rings T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paleontologist T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Playing with Fire T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Plywood Jungle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rainman S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Red Scare S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Shattered Dreams T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shining, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Yeoman's Work T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Wallace, McGown, Olson, 11-88
Page Views: 66 total · 6/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Nov 18, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure Details

Description

This route is currently filthy. Gear is tricky to place (offset nuts helpful), the low crux is out-of-character with the upper section, and the rock quality up high leaves much to be desired. It also seeps.

Start as for The Shining but continue up to the shared low ledge of Paleontologist and step straight into the thin dihedral. Use odd, less-than-great holds to get into a stemming stance for clipping the bolt. Pull off the sloping holds on the ledge and reeeeach for a decent edge up high. Cut your feet for show? Don't blow it as you move way up past your bolt to a dirty ledge and step left to the crack. Feather in some gear here (a 1.5" cam works wonders) then mount the mini-bulge. The crack seams out, so work your feet high and make a reach for the next locking finger jam. Make another hard move to establish your feet on the left. Pull through this relatively easy bit to an awkward move onto the next ledge. A final series of fun moves up the tight dihedral on questionable edges and sidepulls leads to the final rightward pull onto the anchor ledge shared with The Shining.

Location

Just left of the obvious, colorful prow of The Shining

Protection

Gear to 1.5", offset nuts helpful, 1 bolt

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