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Dancing in the Lion's Jaw P1
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in (5) Shining Wall
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Banana Belt T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Beginner's Luck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cloudwalker T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cold Hand of Technology T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dancing in the Lion's Jaw P1 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Domino Effect T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Extinction S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Firing Line T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fits and Starts T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gym Rats from Hell T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lord of the Rings T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Paleontologist T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Playing with Fire T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Plywood Jungle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rainman S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Red Scare S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Shining, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Yeoman's Work T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 26 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Ben S on Jan 26, 2025 |
| Admins: | Roberta Zouain, Kristin Tippey, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure
Details
The park closes on February 1st and remains closed until July 15th to protect nesting peregrine falcons. Their annual nesting spot is on the Shining Wall, though they can be heard year-round. Please respect the closure and DO NOT CLIMB AT MADRONE WALL BETWEEN FEB 1st AND JULY 15th. Updates to the status of the park will posted on Clackamas County Park's website - clackamas.us/parks/madronew… - and on the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee facebook page - facebook.com/madronewall/.
Description
Smear and jam straight up a crack to a comfy stance, then go up and left under a roof to join up with LotR.
The only protection I could find for the roof bit was a blue (smallest) ballnut. Probably safe enough if you just protect before/after, but beware you'll be making committing (though not difficult) moves between with poor feet and potential pendulum smacking you right into the lion's something or other.
This route can continue straight up past the LotR anchor at 11C PG, concluding at a top-out. Generally done as one pitch.
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