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Routes in Lichen Wall

Fantastic Voyage T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Fool's Aid T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Full Monty, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hankin's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2
Jay's Gully T A2
Jesus Lives T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ker Plunk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Large Corner Girdle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
League of Doom T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Monkey's Way T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Munge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Naked Hedge, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Number 8 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nubian Dance T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nuclear Balls T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nuclear Combat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Old Number 7 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Practice Aid Crack T C1
Rage T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Riverside Attraction S,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rock Bottom TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Same Reality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spaceballs S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spaced T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Tra Hex T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Underman T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vegetarian Delight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Whiffle Dick T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Chris Banks and Eric Forney, 2010
Page Views: 90 total · 5/month
Shared By: Chris Banks on Feb 17, 2017
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Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

This 40' traverse pitch connects Nuclear Combat with Spaceballs. From the double ring anchor atop the stellar 11a crux pitch of Nuclear Combat, step right (yellow alien placement) and traverse on good holds over to the bolted anchor above the unfinished climb that Duane had called Isabel. Clip the anchor and step down and under the big roof to the left of League's second belay. Place a #1 Camalot in a flake under the roof then balance your way out right (crux) until you can pull onto the second belay ledge of League of Doom.

This connecting pitch allows the climber to do an excellent four-pitch tour de force of Lichen Wall at 5.11a. Pitch 1 - the first pitch of League of Doom (5.10a R/X); Pitch 2 - the crux pitch of Nuclear Combat (5.11a); Pitch 3 - Nuclear Balls (5.10a); Pitch 4 - Spaceballs (5.11a) or Fantastic Voyage's 3rd pitch (5.8). With the exception of the runout first pitch of League, this entire four-pitch linkup has great protection. All of the pitches are of excellent quality.

Protection

Yellow alien, 24" sling for the Isabel anchor, #1 Camalot, blue or green alien to protect the second at the end of the traverse

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