Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Chris Banks and Eric Forney, 2010
Page Views: 103 total · 5/month
Shared By: Chris Banks on Feb 17, 2017
Admins: Drew Nevius

You & This Route


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Description

This 40' traverse pitch connects Nuclear Combat with Spaceballs. From the double ring anchor atop the stellar 11a crux pitch of Nuclear Combat, step right (yellow alien placement) and traverse on good holds over to the bolted anchor above the unfinished climb that Duane had called Isabel. Clip the anchor and step down and under the big roof to the left of League's second belay. Place a #1 Camalot in a flake under the roof then balance your way out right (crux) until you can pull onto the second belay ledge of League of Doom.

This connecting pitch allows the climber to do an excellent four-pitch tour de force of Lichen Wall at 5.11a. Pitch 1 - the first pitch of League of Doom (5.10a R/X); Pitch 2 - the crux pitch of Nuclear Combat (5.11a); Pitch 3 - Nuclear Balls (5.10a); Pitch 4 - Spaceballs (5.11a) or Fantastic Voyage's 3rd pitch (5.8). With the exception of the runout first pitch of League, this entire four-pitch linkup has great protection. All of the pitches are of excellent quality.

Protection

Yellow alien, 24" sling for the Isabel anchor, #1 Camalot, blue or green alien to protect the second at the end of the traverse

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