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Lichen Wall Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Lichen Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Big Splash T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Fantastic Voyage T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Fool's Aid T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Full Monty, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Hankin's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2
	Isabelle (AKA Path of the Righteousness) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
	Jay's Gully T A2
	Jesus Lives T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Ker Plunk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Large Corner Girdle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	League of Doom T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
	Liaozano Route, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Monkey's Way T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Munge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Naked Hedge, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
	New Number 8 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Nubian Dance T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Nuclear Balls T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Nuclear Combat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Nuclear Dance (Link-up) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Old Number 7 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Practice Aid Crack T C1
	Rage T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Riverside Attraction S,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Rock Bottom TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Same Reality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Spaceballs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Spaced T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Tra Hex T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Underman T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Vegetarian Delight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Whiffle Dick T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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GPS:	34.69598, -98.66703 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Craig Childre on Sep 18, 2006 · Updates
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Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.

Description

The very end of the main area of the narrows. Right side has shade early and the left shades later. Watch for the plentiful posion ivy and poison oak as well as snakes in the summer.

This is hands down the best adventure climbing in the state as well as the tallest wall (close to 200') . A dicey 5.10 pitch guards the classics up higher. From the first set of anchors you can then embark on an adventure from 5.8 "Spaced" to "isabelle" 5.12d.
Nuclear combat and league of doom-spaceballs are the most sought after and well protected, many of the climbs on this wall are rarely climbed.

After topping each route you can either rappel from the spaceballs anchors (3 raps), or walk right staying close to the cliff line and following cairns and faint climber trails back to the intersection of the trail that takes you down into the bottom of the narrows.

Getting There

Follow the trail to Zoo Wall, but continue toward Leaning Tower and the trail will descend to the pool below Lichen Wall.

32 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lichen Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R 29 ● Large Corner Girdle Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 83 ● Ker Plunk Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 18 ● Monkey's Way Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 27 ● Old Number 7 Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 5 ● New Number 8 Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 39 ● Spaceballs Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 5 ● Riverside Attraction Sport, TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 12 ● Nuclear Combat Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R 38 ● League of Doom Trad 2 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 4 ● Fantastic Voyage Trad
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 7 ● Rage Trad