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Routes in Lichen Wall

Fantastic Voyage T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Fool's Aid T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Full Monty, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hankin's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2
Jay's Gully T A2
Jesus Lives T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ker Plunk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Large Corner Girdle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
League of Doom T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Monkey's Way T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Munge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Naked Hedge, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Number 8 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nubian Dance T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nuclear Balls T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nuclear Combat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Old Number 7 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rage T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Riverside Attraction S,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rock Bottom TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Same Reality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spaceballs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spaced T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Tra Hex T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Underman T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vegetarian Delight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Whiffle Dick T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Charlie Boydston, Mike Panciera, 1975
Page Views: 11,566 total, 85/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Sep 18, 2006 with updates
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Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

Small questionable placements protect the lower moves that traverse up to the ramp. Up the ramp and belay at the tree. The 2nd pitch is maybe 5.5 up to some chains to rap.

The climb was named Ker Plunk after Charlie fell a substantial distance and lived, after landing in the river. In reality, it was a miracle he was not killed. Charlie was a fantastic climber and pushed the limits. But this was enough to pack it up climbing, and too many of his 9 lives were spent on this one.

Location

Climbs the obvious ramp above the southmost pool.

Protection

Questionable down low and great up top.
Andrew Smith
Dallas, TX
 
Andrew Smith   Dallas, TX
 
Super fun route, Guidebook says that climb is rated "R", definitely not. Plenty of spots for nuts and passive gear throughout the whole climb. I used two # 3's and one # 2 for the anchor in the crack next to the tree. Second pitch to the chains is more of a scramble than a climb. Definitely worth the approach for first pitch. Sep 4, 2017
Herndon  
A fun beginners route. Everybody does it or has done it. Jan 17, 2016
Chris Walden
Soldotna, Alaska
  5.7 PG13
Chris Walden   Soldotna, Alaska
  5.7 PG13
If it stinks bust out the pink! There is a good spot to place a pink tricam about halfway through the traverse start to protect. Fun route... Sep 15, 2015
Ryan Ray
Weatherford, TX
  5.6
Ryan Ray   Weatherford, TX
  5.6
no way is this a 5.7!!!! its 5.6 Jan 20, 2010
BrianUp Up
Charlottesville, VA
  5.7
BrianUp Up   Charlottesville, VA
  5.7
Except for the first time I climbed this, I don't bother with pro until I get to the move below the ramp (maybe 15 feet left of the start). Good nut there. But there is a flake you can thread earlier and some poor nuts. Tricams work great up on the ramp. Pleasing little climb. The second can fall in the water if they fall early. Hard to keep end of the rope out of the water on the single rope rap. I dropped a cam in the water last time, fear not, we found it and cooled off on a hot day. Jul 30, 2007
Jordan Ramey
Calgary, Alberta
 
Jordan Ramey   Calgary, Alberta
 
This route is named Kerplunk due to the fact that one of the first ascentionists yanked off a hold down low and fell into the river. He was fine and the route was named. Jan 31, 2007