Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lichen Wall

Fantastic Voyage T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Fool's Aid T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Full Monty, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hankin's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2
Jay's Gully T A2
Jesus Lives T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ker Plunk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Large Corner Girdle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
League of Doom T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Monkey's Way T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Munge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Naked Hedge, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Number 8 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nubian Dance T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nuclear Balls T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nuclear Combat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Old Number 7 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rage T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Riverside Attraction S,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rock Bottom TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Same Reality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spaceballs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spaced T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Tra Hex T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Underman T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vegetarian Delight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Whiffle Dick T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Jon Frank, Duane Raleigh 1980
Page Views: 3,541 total, 26/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Oct 5, 2006
Admins:

You & This Route


22 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

P1: 5.10R, maybe X. Begin in the poison ivy and climb the corner. When the crack ends at a bulge, gear up really good, then face climb right a few moves and then up and around the bulge (run-out). It is possible to get a nut in a pocket in the middle of the face. You can then traverse back to the crack for pro or go straight up (slightly easier) to the bolted anchors.

P2: 5.11R. Crank up the wall just to the left of the anchors. About 10 feet up, you can use a rotten flake, but pull down (not out!). Get the first bolt, then go up the underclings past another bolt and then right to a hand crack. A #4 TCU can be placed in the undercling above the first bolt. Follow the crack up and to the right to a nice ledge with bolted anchors.

Now grab the draws and head up Spaceballs!!

Location

The corner left of the main pool with all the poison ivy. 2 single-rope raps from the top of Spaceballs.

Protection

Rack up to 3", and quickdraws.
Chase Webb
Little Rock, AR
 
Chase Webb   Little Rock, AR
 
Superb climbing from bottom to top! You can get a questionable BD #6 nut (green) in the face to instill some confidence for the first pitch crux. Not sure if it would actually hold a fall...Questionable rock on the first and beginning of the second pitch detract from the route quality only slightly. Apr 13, 2017
Kevin Dahlstrom
Fort Worth, TX
 
Kevin Dahlstrom   Fort Worth, TX
 
League of Doom linked with Spaceballs is the jewel of the Wichitas and is probably the only route in the area that would still be a classic if it were located at a major destination. Each of the 3 pitches is unique and fun in its own way. I thought P1 was technical 9+, P2 has a short but powerful (and mega classic) 11b/c crux and P3 (Spaceballs) is sustained, overhanging juggy 5.10 jugs so it probably warrants 11-.

One note on P1. I've done both variations and the left variation is well protected and more fun so I'm not sure why anyone would go right and face a long whipper. At the top of the lower crack place a good piece, step right and up and place an OK nut or tiny cam in a pocket/slot in the middle of the face then make one move up then work left over the bulge to reach the upper, wide crack (bomber #4 cam). The rest is obvious. May 14, 2016
Herndon  
Careful on the first pitch. There have been at least two groundfalls on this pitch that I know of. Yes, there is a spot for a small nut, but it is shallow and not that good, so the first pitch is 5.9X. I dunno where the 5.10 rating came from, but you had better be solid at the grade. The crux is only 1 move, but I would suggest that you do not fall. The second pitch is great. Jan 17, 2016
cool tony. Apr 15, 2012
I have always linked the top two pitches.

If you are feeling solid the entire route can be done in one long pitch. Place long runners on everything and you will have min. rope drag. Mar 28, 2011
Jordan Ramey
Calgary, Alberta
 
Jordan Ramey   Calgary, Alberta
 
Its three single raps to the ground from the top of spaceballs (since that linkup means three pitches). Jan 31, 2007
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Probably one of the best routes anywhere! The first pitch can also be protected with a 00 Wild Country in the pocket on the face. It may not be a very great placement, but it instills a little confidence. Dec 26, 2006