Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,218 total · 8/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Oct 13, 2006
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You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

Needs some cleaning up by further ascents. After going over some chockstones in Old #7 (about 120' off the ground) look for a right-trending small crack that angles up across a dirty and licheny slab. Climb this and then up a black water streak to the top of the wall.

Location

Old #7 Start. Rap off Spaceballs.

Protection

Nuts and small to medium cams. Good pro most of the way but somewhat tedious to place at times.

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jcomp
OKC, OK
 
jcomp   OKC, OK
 
This is one of my favorite routes! It is a great link-up with Old Number 7, just make sure you have a 60m cord and enough slings! It makes for a great pitch. it might be easier to break down into two pitches but that lessens some of the excitement. A tree at the top makes a great anchor. there is also a good anchor tree at the start of New #8. you can also double rope rap from the tree or go toward Ker Plunk, down climb to the anchors and rap off there with a single rope. May 21, 2007
The start of this route was awesome. Fun fingerlocks and good gear. But once I got up onto the slab, things got hairy. After doing some "gardening" in order to get some good pro in, you can either go right or left around a bulge. Not sure if I was off-route, but I chose to go right. The resulting climb was incredibly mossy, chossy, and a tad runout over some questionable gear. The route was still worth doing, and not a bad way to get to the top of Lichen Wall. I might try going left next time though. May 3, 2012