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Routes in Lichen Wall

Fantastic Voyage T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Fool's Aid T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Full Monty, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hankin's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2
Jay's Gully T A2
Jesus Lives T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ker Plunk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Large Corner Girdle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
League of Doom T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Monkey's Way T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Munge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Naked Hedge, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Number 8 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nubian Dance T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nuclear Balls T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nuclear Combat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Old Number 7 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rage T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Riverside Attraction S,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rock Bottom TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Same Reality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spaceballs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spaced T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Tra Hex T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Underman T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vegetarian Delight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Whiffle Dick T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,130 total, 8/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Oct 13, 2006
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Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

Needs some cleaning up by further ascents. After going over some chockstones in Old #7 (about 120' off the ground) look for a right-trending small crack that angles up across a dirty and licheny slab. Climb this and then up a black water streak to the top of the wall.

Location

Old #7 Start. Rap off Spaceballs.

Protection

Nuts and small to medium cams. Good pro most of the way but somewhat tedious to place at times.

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The start of this route was awesome. Fun fingerlocks and good gear. But once I got up onto the slab, things got hairy. After doing some "gardening" in order to get some good pro in, you can either go right or left around a bulge. Not sure if I was off-route, but I chose to go right. The resulting climb was incredibly mossy, chossy, and a tad runout over some questionable gear. The route was still worth doing, and not a bad way to get to the top of Lichen Wall. I might try going left next time though. May 3, 2012
jcomp
OKC, OK
 
jcomp   OKC, OK
 
This is one of my favorite routes! It is a great link-up with Old Number 7, just make sure you have a 60m cord and enough slings! It makes for a great pitch. it might be easier to break down into two pitches but that lessens some of the excitement. A tree at the top makes a great anchor. there is also a good anchor tree at the start of New #8. you can also double rope rap from the tree or go toward Ker Plunk, down climb to the anchors and rap off there with a single rope. May 21, 2007