Avg: 4 from 2 votes
Routes in Lichen Wall
|Fantastic Voyage T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13|
|Fool's Aid T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Full Monty, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Hankin's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2|
|Jay's Gully T A2|
|Jesus Lives T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Ker Plunk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Large Corner Girdle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|League of Doom T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R|
|Monkey's Way T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Munge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Naked Hedge, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|New Number 8 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Nubian Dance T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Nuclear Balls T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Nuclear Combat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Old Number 7 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Rage T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Riverside Attraction S,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Rock Bottom TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Same Reality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Spaceballs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Spaced T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Tra Hex T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Underman T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Vegetarian Delight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Whiffle Dick T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|FA:||Duane Raleigh, et al. 1983|
|Page Views:||183 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||Craig Childre on Oct 13, 2006|
Access is always an issue here. Details
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
DescriptionExcellent climb. One of the best 5.11's in the refuge. The route begins at the first pitch belay on League of Doom. Do the initial unprotected face climbing off the belay as for League until you reach the initial gear placement in a good flake. Place gear and pull left onto a sloping ledge. Clip the first of two updated bolts on this pitch and carefully balance your way left along this ledge until reaching a second bolt. Crank difficult but well-protected moves (first crux) up into the base of a leaning left-facing corner. A good rest is available here. Jam and lieback up the leaning corner until the left wall ends and the dihedral flip-flops orientation into a right-facing corner. The second crux is making the transition into the right-facing corner. When you can, stem over left into Vegetarian's Delight. These two climbs share their last ten feet or so. Ten feet of easier climbing reaches a good stance with a two-bolt anchor.
From this belay you have three options:
1. Climb the next pitch of Nuclear Combat, which goes up and left to surmount an initial overhang before continuing up the dirty slab to the top. This is an unappealing pitch, runout in spots and holding copious amounts of moss and lichen. You'll also need to carry gear up to a #3 Camalot if you want to do this last pitch.
2. Single rope rappel from this two bolt ring anchor back down to the first pitch belay on League. This rappel can be safely made with a 60-meter rope, although take care to watch the rope ends.
3. Climb a recently established 5.10a traverse pitch between this belay and the second pitch belay on League of Doom. You can then continue to the top with Spaceballs or the easier but exposed last pitch of Fantastic Voyage.
For the crux pitch of Nuclear Combat, you'll just need nuts and cams up to a .75 Camalot, with doubles in the .5 to .75 Camalot range. If you want to do the last pitch you'll need gear up to 3-4".
Many thanks to Banks for writing this great description.
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