Adventure Projects is hiring an Android engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lichen Wall

Fantastic Voyage T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Fool's Aid T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Full Monty, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hankin's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2
Jay's Gully T A2
Jesus Lives T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ker Plunk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Large Corner Girdle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
League of Doom T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Monkey's Way T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Munge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Naked Hedge, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Number 8 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nubian Dance T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nuclear Balls T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nuclear Combat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Old Number 7 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Practice Aid Crack T C1
Rage T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Riverside Attraction S,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rock Bottom TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Same Reality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spaceballs S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spaced T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Tra Hex T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Underman T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vegetarian Delight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Whiffle Dick T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 343 total · 2/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Oct 5, 2006 with updates from Chris Banks
Admins:

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

Pitch 1: Heinous start, climb the overhanging roof crack (crux). Past the lip the lichen covered slab is easy terrain with no pro till you reach the belay station.

Pitch 2: Climb the dirty ramp up and right to a point directly below the first bolt. Mantle up onto a good flake, clip the bolt, then stem back right onto a sloping stance on the ramp. Climb very thin 5.10 face moves (slightly runout) up to a roof, clip a bolt over the roof, and crank crux moves over the roof to a good ledge. From here jam and stem 25 feet up a crack/chimney until you can pull left onto the ledge atop the second pitch of League of Doom.

Pitch 3: Climb the first 10-15 feet of Spaceballs over the bulge above the belay and onto the slab above. Traverse left on big sloping footholds to a bolt and a stance right at the very left edge of the face. Place a good cam in a horizontal and then launch out left on an incredibly exposed overhanging traverse along the lip of the big roof, aiming for an obvious diving board flake. This traverse has good holds and is about 5.8 in difficulty, but be prepared to gun it about 15-20 feet without gear. From the big flake, step up on good holds to clip a bolt, pull up and left around the blunt arĂȘte onto a slab and another bolt, then cruise the easy but dirty slab to the top.

The original 1/4" bolts on the second and third pitches have been replaced with 1/2" stainless five-piece bolts and the second pitch has been scrubbed clean of lichen as well as dirt, grass, and thorn bushes (!) pulled out of the crack/chimney above the crux. The end result of this monumental effort is an excellent three-pitch 5.10d if one begins the route with the first pitch of League of Doom instead of Fantastic Voyage's 5.12x first pitch horror fest.

Thanks to Chris Banks for updated route beta.

Location

Roof crack between League of Doom and Spaced.

Protection

A crash pad would be helpful working the 1st pitch. No pro on the slab. Standard Okie rack plus a few bolts to clip.

Historical Notes

The first pitch of Fantastic Voyage has likely seen just two leads, one by Jon Frank on the FA and another soon afterward by Rick McCusic. There's no gear other than a possible cam placement about halfway up the pitch.

The line of the third pitch has never been drawn correctly in any previous guides. Although Jon Frank certainly climbed it while making the route's FA, his very roughly drawn topos showed a line that went straight up at the first bolt instead of horizontally left across the overhang. In his comprehensive guide to the Wichitas, Chuck Lohn drew a similar line for the third pitch along with a vague written description. Based upon these historical inaccuracies, as well as the condition of the bolts when I went up there to replace them (I found three mangled quarter-inch bolts, one without a hanger and another bent 90 degrees and virtually hanging out of its drilled hole, within a 2' x 2' area in the location of the first bolt. Eric Forney, a longtime climbing partner of Jon Frank back then, says that while Jon was an incredibly gifted climber, he couldn't swing a hammer straight to save his life), I would say it's likely that I made one of the first few ascents of this pitch in 2011 after I'd finished my rebolting efforts. In fact, I didn't initially replace the bolts at the end of the traverse because I didn't know they were out there!

Believe it or not, when I went up there to lead it I hadn't climbed on rock in three months following a 35-foot ledge fall attempting a new route on Mt. Scott in which I'd sustained multiple pelvic fractures and a fractured sacrum. I was planning to go up there, clip the bolt, and do a few easy 5.7 moves upward until I reached good holds over the bulge. Imagine my surprise when I found no holds above the bolt at all, at least none that would allow climbing at the listed 5.7 grade. As I stood there evaluating my options, I kept looking out across the roof at that big diving board flake way out there. Without giving it much thought, I placed a cam, told Eric to "watch me", and busted out left on flagging forearms until I could throw a foot over onto the flake and stand up. The bolt Jon had placed here was crap, too, but I placed a small cam in a dubious flake and carefully stepped around onto the slab and eventually on to the top. That was an exciting day for my first time back on rock after a catastrophic climbing fall! - Chris Banks

Fantastic Voyage creates an interesting quandary. For historical purposes, it has a 5.12 X first pitch that has likely only seen a few leads. However, if one were to consider Fantastic Voyage as starting with the first pitch of League, now it becomes an excellent and well-protected 5.10c/d.

Thanks to Chris Banks for this excellent perspective.

Photos

- No Photos -
Drew Nevius
Oklahoma
 
Drew Nevius   Oklahoma
 
From what I've been told, P2 goes right/up the ramp then straight up, then moves back left to the anchor and is 5.10. P3 is an airy 5.7 that might clip the first bolt of Spaceballs, then is a hand traverse left, before continuing up to the anchor and has another bolt somewhere. Haven't yet climbed it myself... Jul 21, 2016
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
Yup... Reading the Lohn guide... and my descriptions is certainly lacking. Jul 22, 2016
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
Chris Banks went above and beyond for us and put in excellent information. Feb 17, 2017
Sam Dempsey
  5.12 X
Sam Dempsey  
  5.12 X
Climbed this route including the 1st pitch last weekend. I spent a couple hours scrubbing moss and dirt off holds on the 1st pitch so its good to go for anyone who wants to climb it. Some beta on the first pitch... after the initial boulder problem out the roof (V4ish? and actually pretty good!) the climbing never gets harder than 5.10a and protection can be found on the pitch (although somewhat dubious). A marginal .75 camalot can be placed at the beginning of the upper crack and a bit higher is a RURP that is actually a pretty good placement, a screamer on it is highly advised though. Once you leave the upper crack more pro options are available. IMO the first pitch isn't THAT heinous, the crux is within bouldering range and with a little inspection beforehand protection can be worked out. This makes a pretty straight forward 5.12 R/X route. Nov 27, 2017

More About Fantastic Voyage

Printer-Friendly