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Routes in Upper Bulge Routes

Bat, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Count, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0
Crucifix, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Field of Dreams T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Flakes, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Happy Hooker T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A4- R
Le Toit T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pharaoh, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Price of Fear, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stairway to Heaven T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Step to Super Pooper Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Step, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Pooper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vampire, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: TM Herbert, Tom Frost & Yvon Chouinard, March 1960, FFA: John Long and Rick Accomazzo, 1973
Page Views: 498 total · 20/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Aug 27, 2016
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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An exciting pull over a sweet roof. Start through some left facing flakes to a 5.8X mantle, clip a bolt and make some 10 moves to the first belay with three bolts, just under the roof.
Pull the great roof clipping a few fixed pieces, a little more 10 slab above to a two bolt belay.
Maybe best to rap from here, otherwise undercling under a roof about 20ft right, then up a juggy crack to join up with Super Pooper. Or, go straight up through a small roof to a thin seam with fixed pins (Pooper Scooper 11c).
We did the undercling roof, met Super Pooper and then got over to the bolted anchor on Flakes for a rap (one 70m ok).


Just left of Super Pooper, right of The Step.


a few smaller pieces help, .3 BD at least.


Two dangers on this, under the roof there's two WAY loose blocks but they are easily avoided, probably should pull them out on a weekday soon. Second is at the start of P3, there's a .75 downward facing slot that my partner claimed was part of a larger loose block, this is located directly under the thin seam start of Pooper Scooper.

One more note, the manly way to do this would be to link P1 and 2. Aug 28, 2016
John Long
Venice, CA
John Long   Venice, CA
Rick A. and I had only been roped climbing for about 1.5 years when we did this one free and once we pulled over the roof I remember thinking: Wonder what else might go free, here and elsewhere. No idea it was 5.12 till half a dozen years later I repeated it with Mike Lechlinski and we were like, That thing's sort of stout. Link pitches 1 and 2. Tried to free the direct finish but never got it. Nov 28, 2017
I cut all the tat off the anchor above the roof and put on two biners, could use some chain to equalize better though Aug 26, 2018

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