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Le Toit

5.12a, Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 3.2 from 6 votes
FA: TM Herbert, Tom Frost & Yvon Chouinard, March 1960, FFA: John Long and Rick Accomazzo, 1973
California > Tahquitz & Suic… > Tahquitz Rock > (f) W Face Bulg… > Upper Bulge Routes


An exciting pull over a sweet roof. Start through some left facing flakes to a 5.8X mantle, clip a bolt and make some 10 moves to the first belay with three bolts, just under the roof.
Pull the great roof clipping a few fixed pieces, a little more 10 slab above to a two bolt belay.
Maybe best to rap from here, otherwise undercling under a roof about 20ft right, then up a juggy crack to join up with Super Pooper. Or, go straight up through a small roof to a thin seam with fixed pins (Pooper Scooper 11c).
We did the undercling roof, met Super Pooper and then got over to the bolted anchor on Flakes for a rap (one 70m ok).


Just left of Super Pooper, right of The Step.


a few smaller pieces help, .3 BD at least.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

That's me in 1966 aiding over the upper arch pitch. Before it was free climbed.
[Hide Photo] That's me in 1966 aiding over the upper arch pitch. Before it was free climbed.
Anthony places a Cam above death block on Pitch 3.
[Hide Photo] Anthony places a Cam above death block on Pitch 3.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Two dangers on this, under the roof there's two WAY loose blocks but they are easily avoided, probably should pull them out on a weekday soon. Second is at the start of P3, there's a .75 downward facing slot that my partner claimed was part of a larger loose block, this is located directly under the thin seam start of Pooper Scooper.

One more note, the manly way to do this would be to link P1 and 2. Aug 28, 2016
John Long
Venice, CA
[Hide Comment] Rick A. and I had only been roped climbing for about 1.5 years when we did this one free and once we pulled over the roof I remember thinking: Wonder what else might go free, here and elsewhere. No idea it was 5.12 till half a dozen years later I repeated it with Mike Lechlinski and we were like, That thing's sort of stout. Link pitches 1 and 2. Tried to free the direct finish but never got it. Nov 28, 2017
[Hide Comment] I cut all the tat off the anchor above the roof and put on two biners, could use some chain to equalize better though Aug 26, 2018
Fan Y
Sierra Eastside
[Hide Comment] Climbed this route yesterday, and the loose blocks are still there. The second one (above p2 anchor) is the real danger, because it offers a seemingly bomber pro (.75) in otherwise marginal terrain but when I pull tested the cam, the block flexed very easily. If the block were to dislodge, it would likely fall on top of your belayer. Beware!

P.s. the block is clearly visible in the only posted pic of the route. Jul 1, 2019
San Diego, CA
[Hide Comment] I aided this route on Sunday with Anthony. Aid goes clean at C1+ with a couple mandatory free sections right after the roof on P2. Bring the cam hooks. P3 easily merges with Super Pooper after you traverse the roof. Sep 9, 2019