Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: (Complete route) Bob and Yvonne Gaines, September 1987
Page Views: 1,945 total · 24/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Nov 7, 2017 · Updates
Admins: C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

Start on the Vampire. From the the top of the Bat Crack, face climb down and right (5.10c) to a good ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.

Don't climb the dihedral directly above (The Crucifix), but traverse around the corner to the left and lieback a steep, thin crack that peters out into an old bolt ladder. Clip the first bolt on the ladder, then face climb out right and up (5.11 PG/R) to a bolt (shared with The Crucifix). Climb up to another bolt, then traverse left and move up (5.11c) to a hanging belay at a 2-bolt anchor.

Tenuous (5.11-) friction diagonally up and left up a ramp past 2 bolts (the first bolt is shared with Field of Dreams which climbs straight up from the first bolt) takes you to a left-facing flake (on the Vampire route). Climb about 15 feet up the corner, then bust out right, face climbing up and right for about 30 feet up to a belay stance at a tiny ledge.

The last pitch climbs directly up the slab and intersects Upper Royal's Arch where it climbs over the giant arch at a flake (5.8), then finishes up a steep corner through the headwall (5.7).

First Ascent History

FA to top of bolt ladder: (5.7, A2) Don Wilson, Jerry Galwas, and Chuck Wilts, 1960 (they pendulumed right off the headwall from the top of the bolt ladder)

FFA of dihedral to bolt ladder: Tobin Sorenson, 1973

FFA of bolt ladder (on Toprope, 5.12a): Matt Bebe and Ian Katz, July 2000.

Protection Suggest change

Double rack from thin to 2.5 inches, plus one 3-inch CD (#3 camalot)

Photos

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