All Locations > California > Tahquitz & Suic… > Tahquitz Rock > (f) W Face Bulg… > Upper Bulge Routes

The Bat

Name: The Bat
Rating: 3.6

5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British PG13

Routes in Upper Bulge Routes

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bat, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Count, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0
	Crucifix, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Field of Dreams T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Flakes, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Happy Hooker T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A4- R
	Le Toit T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Le Toitlette T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Pharaoh, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Pooper Scooper (Le Toit direct finish), The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Price of Fear, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Stairway to Heaven T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Step to Super Pooper Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Step, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Super Pooper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Vampire, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

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Type:	Trad, 4 pitches
FA:	(Complete route) Bob and Yvonne Gaines, September 1987
Page Views:	1,978 total · 23/month
Shared By:	Bob Gaines on Nov 7, 2017 · Updates
Admins:	C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Start on the Vampire. From the the top of the Bat Crack, face climb down and right (5.10c) to a good ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.

Don't climb the dihedral directly above (The Crucifix), but traverse around the corner to the left and lieback a steep, thin crack that peters out into an old bolt ladder. Clip the first bolt on the ladder, then face climb out right and up (5.11 PG/R) to a bolt (shared with The Crucifix). Climb up to another bolt, then traverse left and move up (5.11c) to a hanging belay at a 2-bolt anchor.

Tenuous (5.11-) friction diagonally up and left up a ramp past 2 bolts (the first bolt is shared with Field of Dreams which climbs straight up from the first bolt) takes you to a left-facing flake (on the Vampire route). Climb about 15 feet up the corner, then bust out right, face climbing up and right for about 30 feet up to a belay stance at a tiny ledge.

The last pitch climbs directly up the slab and intersects Upper Royal's Arch where it climbs over the giant arch at a flake (5.8), then finishes up a steep corner through the headwall (5.7).

First Ascent History

FA to top of bolt ladder: (5.7, A2) Don Wilson, Jerry Galwas, and Chuck Wilts, 1960 (they pendulumed right off the headwall from the top of the bolt ladder)

FFA of dihedral to bolt ladder: Tobin Sorenson, 1973

FFA of bolt ladder (on Toprope, 5.12a): Matt Bebe and Ian Katz, July 2000.