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The Bat
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British PG13
Avg: 3.4 from 7
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Routes in Upper Bulge Routes
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Bat, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Count, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0 |
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Crucifix, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Field of Dreams T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Flakes, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Happy Hooker T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A4- R |
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Le Toit T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Le Toitlette T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Pharaoh, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Pooper Scooper (Le Toit direct finish), The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Price of Fear, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Stairway to Heaven T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Step to Super Pooper Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Step, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Super Pooper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Vampire, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches |
| FA: | (Complete route) Bob and Yvonne Gaines, September 1987 |
| Page Views: | 1,708 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Bob Gaines on Nov 7, 2017 · Updates |
| Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Start on the Vampire. From the the top of the Bat Crack, face climb down and right (5.10c) to a good ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.
Don't climb the dihedral directly above (The Crucifix), but traverse around the corner to the left and lieback a steep, thin crack that peters out into an old bolt ladder. Clip the first bolt on the ladder, then face climb out right and up (5.11 PG/R) to a bolt (shared with The Crucifix). Climb up to another bolt, then traverse left and move up (5.11c) to a hanging belay at a 2-bolt anchor.
Tenuous (5.11-) friction diagonally up and left up a ramp past 2 bolts (the first bolt is shared with Field of Dreams which climbs straight up from the first bolt) takes you to a left-facing flake (on the Vampire route). Climb about 15 feet up the corner, then bust out right, face climbing up and right for about 30 feet up to a belay stance at a tiny ledge.
The last pitch climbs directly up the slab and intersects Upper Royal's Arch where it climbs over the giant arch at a flake (5.8), then finishes up a steep corner through the headwall (5.7).
First Ascent History
FA to top of bolt ladder: (5.7, A2) Don Wilson, Jerry Galwas, and Chuck Wilts, 1960 (they pendulumed right off the headwall from the top of the bolt ladder)
FFA of dihedral to bolt ladder: Tobin Sorenson, 1973
FFA of bolt ladder (on Toprope, 5.12a): Matt Bebe and Ian Katz, July 2000.
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