Type: Trad, Aid
FA: Scott Cosgrove, Bob Gaines, and Dave Mayville, August 1993.
Page Views: 95 total · 17/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Jul 2, 2018
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Begin at the base of the Vampire Direct Start.

P1: Climb up and right on chossy rock to a belay at a jammed block with a mountain mahogany.

P2: Stellar face climbing on excellent rock with incut edges past 7 bolts leads up and right to the arete. It's 5.11 past the first two bolts, then a single point of aid was used at the third bolt. From here, climb up a tiny blank right-facing corner with two bolts, then traverse up and right (sustained 5.11+) on very steep face climbing past two more bolts to the arete. Here you'll find a critical pro placement in a horizontal crack (.4 to .5 inches) that protects tricky slab moves (5.11+) up to the bolt anchor shared with The Crucifix.

Protection

Pro: 7 bolts, plus gear to 2 inches, including a CD from .4 to .5 inches.

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