Type: Trad
FA: FFA: Bob Gaines/Tommy Romero
Page Views: 2,874 total · 30/month
Shared By: Dave Snyder on Mar 5, 2011
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Climb the Bat Crack but instead of mantling at the top of the pitch, head up and then hard right to a 2 bolt anchor. From here, work your way up the smooth corner via excellent stemming / palming / crimps / slopers, busting left and right of the corner as needed. An excellent full value pitch with great position!

Location

See 'The Vampire' for directions to the route. After finishing The Crucifix, continue up Field of Dreams to top out. Or, rap back to start of Crucifix & then 2 rope rap down/right of the start of the Bat Crack direct start (haven't done this).

Protection

apx. 5 bolts. 2 bolt anchor to start and end the route. Small cams and nuts.

Photos

chris righter
  5.11+
chris righter  
  5.11+
Great route. At the roof section there is a perfect cam placement and a bolt 2 feet higher. Then you have to do a bit of a committing move well above that bolt with a potential awkward fall into the dihedral. Would be nice if that bolt was moved up a little higher where there is a more logical clipping stance further away from the cam and avoiding the awkward fall potential. Just my 2 cents. Still a great route! I found Field of Dreams easier than this pitch. May 28, 2011
Agree with Chris here about the placement of the bolt, but don't really feel strongly enough about it to suggest the effort of moving it. I also agree about the rating. The final traverse left to the anchor seemed miles harder than anything else on the Bat Crack, Crucifix linkup. Maybe even a sandbag at 11c? Or maybe I'm just gettin old... Jun 14, 2011
crag cat
San Diego
 
crag cat   San Diego
 
Great route. It's 11+ up to the last bolt, then its a few 5.12 moves to the anchor. It looks like some hold maybe broke off, those moves are harder than any move on Stairway or the Pharaoh. Jul 21, 2018