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Routes in Upper Bulge Routes

Bat, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Count, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0
Crucifix, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Field of Dreams T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Flakes, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Happy Hooker T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A4- R
Le Toit T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pharaoh, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Price of Fear, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stairway to Heaven T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Step to Super Pooper Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Step, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Pooper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vampire, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Lynn Hill and John Long, 1983
Page Views: 780 total · 15/month
Shared By: fubar on Jun 16, 2014
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the obvious thin, arching crack to the left of the Bat Crack. Climb up to a bolt on the left side of the dihedral, then follow the tips crack around the corner, where some wild and physical climbing gains the flaky but solid handcrack. Continue up to the anchors on Vampire Ledge or (this would be cool but I haven't done it) link into the second half of the Vampire's first pitch.

Location

Begin down and to the left of the Bat Crack on the slab below the crack.

Protection

One bolt (not sure if this was originally on route), tiny gear and some hand-sized pieces for the upper crack.

Photos

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dhayan
Los Angeles, CA
dhayan   Los Angeles, CA
Very cool pitch - starts with facey crack then delicate yet powerful moves on good holds after the bolt, leading to some steep jamming in a flared JTree like crack (could use more traffic to clean out). There is a rotten flake jug inside the upper part of crack, if it comes out the climb will get a bit harder. Jun 19, 2014

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