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Routes in Upper Bulge Routes

Bat, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Crucifix, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Field of Dreams T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Flakes, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Le Toit T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pharaoh, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Price of Fear, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stairway to Heaven T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Step, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Pooper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vampire, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Bob Gaines & Charlie Peterson, August 1996
Page Views: 1,300 total, 20/month
Shared By: Josh Higgins on Sep 2, 2012
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This amazingly blank and exposed section of rock heads roughly straight up from the anchor where Crucifix and The Bat finish. Climb roughly 50-60' of some intensely tenuous friction to easier ground above. The improbable climbing is very well protected except one move near the 2nd to the last bolt. A couple of the bolts are older, or have bizarre hangers, but will probably do the job. This route was originally graded 11b in the Tahquitz guidebook, but I've heard rumor others think it's harder as well...

Location

Approach via the Bat Crack and Crucifix or The Bat. Finish by moving left toward The Vampire. Walk off via the friction descent.

Protection

Roughly 8 bolts, 1-3" gear for an anchor in the arch above.

Photos

Josh Higgins  
 
This thing requires time, creativity, and commitment if you aren't a slab master. Most people I know bail and rappel leaving a carabiner, including myself the first time. I've since redpointed it, but it took honest to go WORK! It's a fun learning experience, and unique even for Tahquitz.

The guidebook said 11b, and I didn't want to uprate this thing by more than 2 letter grades, but after redpointing it and talking to many friends who are good/competent climbers who have been completely shutdown on this thing I think it's in the easy 5.12 range. It's completely safe though, so go give it a try! Sep 19, 2013
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
 
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
 
I approached this pitch a year or so ago via The Crucifix (11b/c) and thought it was WAY harder than that route. I'd vote for the stiff side of 11d. Oct 18, 2012