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Routes in Ridge 1 aka Stairway to Heaven

Ariel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Armed Forces S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Arms Reduction T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Army T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Better Than Better Than Love T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Better than Love T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Casual Slabs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Forget Me Not T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Guardian, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gunky T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
In God We Trust T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Inscrutable T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Like Hell It Is T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Love T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Party Of One T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pepé Le sPew S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Seeker, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Stairway to Heaven T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Wanderer, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
What, What? TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Who, Who? T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Jim Erikson, free solo, 1978
Page Views: 123 total, 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 20, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a reasonable route that could use some more cleaning, though we cleaned it up quite a bit already.

Climb up the steady overhang getting a few surprisingly good flakes and avoiding some not-so-obviously bad ones (but bad none the less). **Stretch** up over a crux to place a hand or large-sized cam (3"), and pull through with the gear above you on some questionable feet.

Once established up there, the next 90' are easier climbing but for an awkward bulge here and there. Sparse protection is adequate and seems to come when you want or need it.

Save a 2 or 2.5" piece for a directional, and beware that the top crack is a rope jammer/eater. I put a barkless stick in it to prop the rope out on a 'bearing' of sorts and it was a tremendous help. The stick is still up there. Lastly, I wore stiff high-tops on the climb, because I expected OW. There is far more (that being any) sloper, rounded feet than actual OW climbing with feet, so sport shoes or at least softer ones would have been much better.

Location

To the left of Love and Better Than Love, there is another peak/tower on the cliffline. Back in a slightly obtuse corner there is a flaky overhang that ascends several body-lengths to reach a ledge, jam, then OW....

Getting to that crack overhangs solidly and steadily and is the crux.

Protection

I climbed this with Camalots from #0.5 to #6. I had doubles of #5 and #6, and could have placed another #1, 2, and 3 and been happy about it.

Most useful of all on this route were the yellow and purple at the crux at the bottom, behind flakes. What I *WISH* I'd had was a 2-2.5" Friend, HB, FCU, or likewise. Anything shorter along the axle than the red Camalot, which was 1/4" too long along the axle to fit in the only REALLY solid placement before pulling the crux. So take such a thing and be happier....

Photos

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