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Routes in Ridge 1 aka Stairway to Heaven
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Ariel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Armed Forces S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Arms Reduction T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Army T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Better Than Better Than Love T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Better than Love T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Casual Slabs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Devil May Care T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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Forget Me Not T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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God's Kingdom on Earth S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Guardian, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Gunky T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Heaven and Hell S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Hellbound S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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In God We Trust T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Inscrutable T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Like Hell It Is T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Love T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Party Of One T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Pepé Le sPew S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Pious Polecats S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Seeker, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Stairway to Heaven T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Wanderer, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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What, What? TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Who, Who? T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | S. Woodruff & S. Kent, 1975 |
| Page Views: | 645 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Nov 4, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2018 Raptor Closure Lifted
Details
As of May 16, 2018, per Flatirons Climbing Council: the raptor closures have been lifted here due to no or failed raptor nesting.
Currently 105744237 is not applicable.
Currently 105744237 is not applicable.
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
This is a climb on mostly good rock and good holds but one that suffers for lichen and runouts. If it were to get a few good cleanings or a hundred ascents, it would be worthy of a might higher quality rating, but as is, its potential is unrealized.
From the small juniper, climb up and right (long reach) to a large flake, throw on a 3' sling, then go right to get established on top of it (crux, 5.8). Break hard left along a horizontal band below a bulge, passing some cam placements along the way, for perhaps 10 meters, until the bulge has ended, then climb directly up on jugs, tending left here and there when necessary to avoid difficulty. The protection is scarce at best, but the climbing mellow. Beware of the potential of slipping in the crisp lichen underhand or foot.
From the small juniper, climb up and right (long reach) to a large flake, throw on a 3' sling, then go right to get established on top of it (crux, 5.8). Break hard left along a horizontal band below a bulge, passing some cam placements along the way, for perhaps 10 meters, until the bulge has ended, then climb directly up on jugs, tending left here and there when necessary to avoid difficulty. The protection is scarce at best, but the climbing mellow. Beware of the potential of slipping in the crisp lichen underhand or foot.
Location
Approach this climb from uphill, scrambling up a short bit of rack, then down and over 20 meters on a sloping ledge to reach a seat on the ledge beside a tiny juniper tree. Ariel starts up and right onto a flake . It might be best to toss down rope from there and get a belay from the ground.
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