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Routes in Ridge 1 aka Stairway to Heaven

Ariel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Armed Forces S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Arms Reduction T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Army T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Better Than Better Than Love T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Better than Love T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Casual Slabs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Forget Me Not T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Guardian, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gunky T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
In God We Trust T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Inscrutable T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Like Hell It Is T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Love T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Party Of One T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pepé Le sPew S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Seeker, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Stairway to Heaven T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Wanderer, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
What, What? TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Who, Who? T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: S. Woodruff & S. Kent, 1975
Page Views: 72 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 4, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a climb on mostly good rock and good holds but one that suffers for lichen and runouts. If it were to get a few good cleanings or a hundred ascents, it would be worthy of a might higher quality rating, but as is, its potential is unrealized.

From the small juniper, climb up and right (long reach) to a large flake, throw on a 3' sling, then go right to get established on top of it (crux, 5.8). Break hard left along a horizontal band below a bulge, passing some cam placements along the way, for perhaps 10 meters, until the bulge has ended, then climb directly up on jugs, tending left here and there when necessary to avoid difficulty. The protection is scarce at best, but the climbing mellow. Beware of the potential of slipping in the crisp lichen underhand or foot.

Location

Approach this climb from uphill, scrambling up a short bit of rack, then down and over 20 meters on a sloping ledge to reach a seat on the ledge beside a tiny juniper tree. Ariel starts up and right onto a flake . It might be best to toss down rope from there and get a belay from the ground.

Protection

A few cams to 3.5" and a few stoppers. Some long runners.

Photos

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