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Routes in Ridge 1 aka Stairway to Heaven

Ariel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Armed Forces S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Arms Reduction T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Army T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Better Than Better Than Love T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Better than Love T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Casual Slabs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Forget Me Not T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Guardian, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gunky T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
In God We Trust T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Inscrutable T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Like Hell It Is T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Love T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Party Of One T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pepé Le sPew S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Seeker, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Stairway to Heaven T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Wanderer, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
What, What? TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Who, Who? T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 123 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 4, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This has good clean rock and occasional but solid protection for a good trad leader.

'Better Than Better Than Love' is better than 'Better Than Love', but as it is almost universally accepted that 'Better Than Love' is no better than 'Love,' it should be understood that it is not implied that 'Better Than Better Than Love' is not better than 'Love.'

This particular line starts on a clean face and goes up to a hidden, horizontal, 2" crack, 5 meters up, then past a flake on the left with a tiny pine growing from behind it, then up a short and small, right-facing corner, past this to a crack and slab to the top. The crux is encountered just above the tree in a clean corner but can be escaped by bumping out left onto good face holds.

Location

Down the hill from the Like Heaven summit there is a clean wall that is less than vertical. Several climbable features are here in solid, clean stone. Perhaps the lack of salient characteristics on this wall are the cause of the undocumented lines here, many of which have must have been climbed even in antiquity.

This climb is perhaps 50 meters downhill from the West face of the Like Heaven summit.

Protection

A set of hand-sized cams and a few larger nuts or tricams. Place a good directional up top before scrambling uphill 10 meters to a tree with a cordalette and biner to rap. I should have made the cord shorter or longer, but I didn't have a knife or more cord- maybe someone will swap it out.

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