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Routes in Ridge 1 aka Stairway to Heaven

Ariel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Armed Forces S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Arms Reduction T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Army T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Better Than Better Than Love T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Better than Love T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Casual Slabs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Forget Me Not T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Guardian, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gunky T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
In God We Trust T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Inscrutable T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Like Hell It Is T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Love T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Party Of One T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pepé Le sPew S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Seeker, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Stairway to Heaven T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Wanderer, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
What, What? TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Who, Who? T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 171 total, 1/month
Shared By: George Bell on Jun 5, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route begins in the same place as "Love". See the description for that route to locate the start. Crank the entrance move to get onto the rock. After you reach a large ledge about 15' up, instead of moving up and right into the large dihedral (Love), move up and left.

The exact line of this route was not clear to us. If you move far enough left you run into a clean arete, and we climbed this to the ridge. I believe you can also climb the face right of this arete. It may be possible to lead this entire thing in one giant pitch with a 60m rope, but you would have to be careful with the rope drag. We split it up into two pitches.

Once you reach the ridge, you can downclimb the east side, or continue to the top.

Protection

Standard Flatiron rack.
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.5 R
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.5 R
This is an interesting pitch. There really aren't any great features to necessarily follow; however, there is this line of huecos in the middle of this face that draws the eye. I'm guessing it is the steepness of this section on jugs that make it "better than" Love. Note, you have to get creative with pro in this stretch, and it's better not to flame out or fall here, as it might not be pretty. Think Gunks and you'll be okay. It was 180' to a ledge.

The tree up and over and down from the top by itself and had a red, blue, faded orange, and a 4th sling with 2 rap rings. Given they were fairly crisp, we added a red sling but forget the lighter to melt its cut end. Aug 30, 2013
Brendan
Golden, CO
 
Brendan   Golden, CO
 
Thanks for the excellent beta on the route, Warren Teissier! I really liked the airy exposure on the arete. Maybe not quite as good as "Love", but I enjoyed the route very much. The rap station on the tree to the north was in good condition. Oct 20, 2012
Chris Zeller
Boulder, CO
Chris Zeller   Boulder, CO
I did this yesterday along with Love. I agree, this was a fun climb, but Love with its dramatic summit is much better.

One 60m rope is plenty to reach the summit. The line is pretty straight, so no rope drag issues.

To get off this climb, scramble right from the summit over a boulder, along the NE face and around to the west side to two medium-sized fir trees. One tree has a bunch of green slings with rap rings. One 50 m rope should make it to the ground. We used one 60m. Mar 28, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
I went up the crack and then rather than going left or right, went up more or less central to the face. I did it in a single 50+ meter pitch and got 4 pieces of gear in. It felt harder than 5.5, too.
Anyway, it was a decent line.

You can rap from the chains of the 'Like Heaven' tower summit with a 60m rope to the ends to reach a chock in the dihedral of 'Love.' There is a SOLID rap station there from which to reach the ground in another 40-50' rap. Jun 15, 2006
Lead this today and I have to say, it is NOT better than Love.

From the point where the routes separate, follow the strata left towards the arete to a point where the arete has a large pointed horn (separated from the arete by a one foot crack). This is the crux.

Turn the horn towards the North and climb the arete straight up from this point. The rock near the horn is brittle, but take a large piece (#3 Camalot). Jun 20, 2002