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Routes in Ridge 1 aka Stairway to Heaven

Ariel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Armed Forces S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Arms Reduction T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Army T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Better Than Better Than Love T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Better than Love T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Casual Slabs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Forget Me Not T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Guardian, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gunky T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
In God We Trust T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Inscrutable T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Like Hell It Is T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Love T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Party Of One T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pepé Le sPew S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Seeker, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Stairway to Heaven T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Wanderer, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
What, What? TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Who, Who? T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
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Type: Sport, 60 ft Fixed Hardware (6)
FA: D. Hare & M. O'Donnell, 1986
Page Views: 1,078 total · 8/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 4, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: 2018 Raptor Closure Lifted Details
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is endurance crimping on consistently good but inobvious holds. Climb up to the first bolt, and hang a long runner on this before the exciting traverse right to the next bolt (5.9+?, R), place another long sling, then head up to the next several bolts, tending slightly left to a 2-bolt anchor. The crux is not that hard, but it is high and requires some endurance to get without a hang.

Location

Scramble up to a spot on a small ledge below the first bolt or approach this climb from uphill, scrambling up a short bit of rack, then down and over 20 meters on a sloping ledge to reach the spot below the first bolt (no gear here for a belay).

Protection

4 bolts, some are far between, so heads-up! 2 bolt anchor.

The anchor was 2 vertically-aligned bolts with single smash-links and shitty webbing connecting them. The old tat was replaced with a fat, tied sling, and a biner was added and now the anchor is a little more friendly. Still, it would be best if someone took up a few rapid links and chain (about 8" total) and hung the top bolt down to parallel with the second bolt and added a link to the lower bolt to make it stand off the cliff instead of locking off the rope as it is pulled.

Photos

Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
  5.10d
I like the opening move, overhung, but great holds. And up top there's a totally unique block with a hole through it. Traverse back L at the top before the anchor for the easiest holds. I didn't feel an 11 move on the route, although it's some good pulling on not always jugs. Good climbing, mostly great holds, sparsely bolted. Sep 21, 2008
There are four 3/8" bolts with SMC hangers. Mar 18, 2014
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
We swapped out the sun-bleached white (formerly chartreuse) sling with a bit of cord through bolt smashlinks and a quicklink. The rope pulls easily now. You can also now clip a biner into both SMC hangers. Mar 18, 2014