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Routes in Ridge 1 aka Stairway to Heaven

Ariel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Armed Forces S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Arms Reduction T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Army T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Better Than Better Than Love T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Better than Love T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Casual Slabs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Forget Me Not T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Guardian, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gunky T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
In God We Trust T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Inscrutable T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Like Hell It Is T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Love T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Party Of One T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pepé Le sPew S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Seeker, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Stairway to Heaven T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Wanderer, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
What, What? TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Who, Who? T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
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Type: Sport, 60 ft Fixed Hardware (6)
FA: D. Hare & M. O'Donnell, 1986
Page Views: 1,078 total · 8/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 4, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: 2018 Raptor Closure Lifted Details
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details


This is endurance crimping on consistently good but inobvious holds. Climb up to the first bolt, and hang a long runner on this before the exciting traverse right to the next bolt (5.9+?, R), place another long sling, then head up to the next several bolts, tending slightly left to a 2-bolt anchor. The crux is not that hard, but it is high and requires some endurance to get without a hang.


Scramble up to a spot on a small ledge below the first bolt or approach this climb from uphill, scrambling up a short bit of rack, then down and over 20 meters on a sloping ledge to reach the spot below the first bolt (no gear here for a belay).


4 bolts, some are far between, so heads-up! 2 bolt anchor.

The anchor was 2 vertically-aligned bolts with single smash-links and shitty webbing connecting them. The old tat was replaced with a fat, tied sling, and a biner was added and now the anchor is a little more friendly. Still, it would be best if someone took up a few rapid links and chain (about 8" total) and hung the top bolt down to parallel with the second bolt and added a link to the lower bolt to make it stand off the cliff instead of locking off the rope as it is pulled.


Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
I like the opening move, overhung, but great holds. And up top there's a totally unique block with a hole through it. Traverse back L at the top before the anchor for the easiest holds. I didn't feel an 11 move on the route, although it's some good pulling on not always jugs. Good climbing, mostly great holds, sparsely bolted. Sep 21, 2008
There are four 3/8" bolts with SMC hangers. Mar 18, 2014
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
We swapped out the sun-bleached white (formerly chartreuse) sling with a bit of cord through bolt smashlinks and a quicklink. The rope pulls easily now. You can also now clip a biner into both SMC hangers. Mar 18, 2014