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Routes in Ridge 1 aka Stairway to Heaven

Ariel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Armed Forces S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Arms Reduction T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Army T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Better Than Better Than Love T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Better than Love T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Casual Slabs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Forget Me Not T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Guardian, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gunky T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
In God We Trust T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Inscrutable T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Like Hell It Is T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Love T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Party Of One T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pepé Le sPew S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Seeker, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Stairway to Heaven T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Wanderer, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
What, What? TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Who, Who? T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Paul Glover, Andrew Seymour, Jon Dunn
Page Views: 842 total · 10/month
Shared By: Paul Glover on Apr 9, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: 2018 Raptor Closure Lifted Details
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

From the top of Ridge One, traverse right for 30 feet (5.9). Place a #2 Camalot and head for a sharp point out right, then go straight up and over the apex of the large overhang. One can sling the point to reduce the runout and also place a small cam behind a flake at the lip. After pulling the lip, continue to the summit or build an anchor in a horizontal slot just over the lip with large cams.

Location

This is on the North end of Ridge One.

Protection

The traverse eats cams of all sizes. A #3 or #3.5 Camalot is useful behind the first horn. A gray Alien protected the first move off the ground going around the corner but was then pulled to avoid drag.

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