Celestial Pile

Celestial Pile is a mixed (gear and bolts) 2 pitch route that ascends the west face of the Like Heaven Pinnacle. The route starts directly below the Pinnacle, just downhill/right of existing routes Gunky and Slot.

P1: 5.12-, 95 feet.
Climb up past a bolt to a left-leaning, 3"-4" crack. Continue up to a ledge, and begin a rightward traverse. Head straight up past five bolts through the steep wall above. Continue straight up after the last bolt past a horizontal crack to a ledge with a bolted anchor. Note: the crux can be reasonably bypassed at ~11c if you have over 6' of wingspan.

P2: 5.12, 90 feet.
Go straight up from the anchor on easy terrain with a couple gear options available. Clip a high first bolt at the beginning of the overhanging pinnacle above, and pull onto the nice hueco'ed face. Continue straight up through the overhang past 2 more bolts and onto the beautiful headwall. Follow a vertical crack feature in the center of the pinnacle, passing one more bolt on the way to the anchor.

Note on rock quality: although most of the route is solid, the overhang on P2 has some choss - mostly the sandy stuff. It will clean up more with traffic, but watch for loose rocks. Helmets are mandatory. The belay ledge is in the line of fire, so stand slightly to the left as your climber goes through the crux. Also, it is worth noting that there is a large somewhat loose block before the first bolt on P2. Tread lightly here....

The Like Heaven Pinnacle is an obvious, west-facing overhanging pinnacle jutting out from the middle of Ridge 1. Celestial Pile starts directly below the pinnacle and goes straight up the middle. Approach by walking up Skunk Canyon past The Guardian to the trail that goes uphill between Satan's Slab and Ridge 1, hugging the west side of Ridge 1. This route starts below a bolt and a left-leaning, 4" crack, just right of the existing routes Gunky and Slot. Alternatively, walk downhill from the new sport routes at the top of Ridge 1 (Heaven and Hell, etc.).

A single rack 0.1 - 0.75 , #3, #4, and an optional yellow offset nut; a 60m rope; 6 draws; 2-4 slings, plus whatever you need for the anchor.

An extra slimmed down rack is: 0.1, 0.5, 0.75, #4, 6 draws, and 1 sling, plus the anchor.

More beta: a right kneepad for the crux was useful.