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Routes in Green Valley Gap

12 Gauge Conversion TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
2 Weeks Notice S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Australian Monk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bare Necessities S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beggars and Choosers S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Benefit of the Doubt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bitter Recriminations S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Brazilian Ninjas T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Butterflies Arete TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Buttkutt T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chinese Gauncho T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cool Katz S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Damned If You Do TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Damned If You Don't TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dueling Grandmas S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Factional Infighting TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fat Black Chuck S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flue Shot S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hair Today Gone Tomorrow S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hairy Virgin TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hue and Cry S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
I'm hungry, I've got to poop! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Inquisition, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Jezabel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knee Replacement S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lamenites S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lincoln's Lament T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Luck of the Irish S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Moral Dilemma S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nemesis S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nephites S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Not Arrgh S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pain in the Cass! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Parking Slot TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Perky's Playground S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Presidential Centerfold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Presidential Warfare T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Puppet Strings S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Quickening, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Redneck Wonderland S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Rock!! n' Roll T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Roosterhead Ridge TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sand Stoner Reverse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short and Dorky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shotgun Baptism S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Skin Graft S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stick to your Guns S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tape Up V5 6C
Unknown T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Washingtons' Wig T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wave, The S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
West Wave TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Where Egos Dare S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 291 total, 13/month
Shared By: kenr on Feb 17, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Thoughtful interesting stemming and other moves in the narrow gully (after working out the "trick" starting move), then easier fun moves above.

Start in the left half of the narrow gully, up the gully, then on to the top (going between the razor on the left and the roosterhead on the right).

As of 2016 this rock has not been climbed or tested much, so not unlikely if some of it breaks loose. Therefore the climber should wear a helmet, and the belayer and any other persons should stay way off to one side or the other - (not underneath the climber) - (also not anywhere out in front of the route, because falling rocks can bounce and ricochet way out away from the wall).

Location

The wide crack / narrow gully about ten feet left (west) from the "practice" anchor (one piton + one old bolt + one newer bolt) on left side of slab with the easier routes ("Chinese Guancho" / "Texas Jug" and "Brazilian Ninja") which is just west from the access scramble down from the north-side parking.

see Sector Topo photo
and Left side Topo photo

Protection

Top-Roping from the bolt anchor for the climb to the right of this, supplemented with Trad directional (perhaps sling around horn?)

Protection for trad Leading is unknown.

Photos

kenr
 
kenr  
 
I climbed up this slot, and at the top there was my car parked.

Took me a while to find the unusual hold for the first move off the ground. When I see holds like that at an indoor gym, I tell myself it's interesting and fun to use it, but they're not a realistic representation of outdoor rock. Except here. Feb 18, 2016