Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 528 total · 13/month
Shared By: kenr on Feb 17, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Thoughtful interesting stemming and other moves in the narrow gully (after working out the "trick" starting move), then easier fun moves above.

Start in the left half of the narrow gully, up the gully, then on to the top (going between the razor on the left and the roosterhead on the right).

warning: As of 2018 this rock has not been climbed or tested much, so not unlikely if some of it breaks loose. Therefore the climber should wear a helmet, and the belayer and any other persons should stay way off to one side or the other - (not underneath the climber) - (also not anywhere out in front of the route, because falling rocks can bounce and ricochet way out away from the wall).

Location

The wide crack / narrow gully about ten feet left (west) from the "practice" anchor (one piton + one old bolt + one newer bolt) on left side of slab with the easier routes ("Chinese Guancho" / "Texas Jug" and "Brazilian Ninja") which is just west from the access scramble down from the north-side parking.

- - > See sector topo Photo

. . . . or Left side topo Photo

Protection

Top-Roping from the bolt anchor for the climb to the right of this, supplemented with Trad directional (perhaps sling around horn?)

Protection for trad Leading is unknown.

Photos

kenr
  5.7+
kenr  
  5.7+
I climbed up this slot, and at the top there was my car parked.

Took me a while to find the unusual hold for the first move off the ground. When I see holds like that at an indoor gym, I tell myself it's interesting and fun to use it, but they're not a realistic representation of outdoor rock. Except here. Feb 18, 2016