Type: Sport, 25 ft
FA: J. Ericksen
Page Views: 975 total · 10/month
Shared By: skeers on Jun 9, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

Campus start up through big holds, enter the crux with a diaper on, because your going to shit. Finish out on good holds.

Location

50 yards to the left of "Pain in the Cass" Park at the very last parking spot. Head west approximately 25 yards to the obvious down climb into the canyon. Once at the bottom turn right and walk approximately 50 feet, climbs will be on your right. The two prominent climbs on overhang.

Protection

4 bolts to equalized chained anchors. Shared first bolt with Fear no evil, the climb that banks off to the left..

Photos

jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
  5.11c PG13
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
  5.11c PG13
Tough start, especially for short folks. You have to wedge yourself into the crack to the right and kind of hang low on the big holds. This makes it really hard to clip the low, first bolt on 'fear no evil.' Seemed better to us to stick clip the "second" bolt. Blowing the clip on either of those first bolts would be bad, hence the pg-13 rating.

The holds above the undercling are pretty positive and there is a really cool move from that ledge to the high jug just before the last bolt. Powerful, but fun route. Felt just a little harder than Moral Dilemma. Mar 5, 2016