Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Green Valley Gap

12 Gauge Conversion TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
2 Weeks Notice S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Australian Monk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bare Necessities S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beggars and Choosers S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Benefit of the Doubt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bitter Recriminations S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Brazilian Ninjas T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Butterflies Arete TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Buttkutt T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chinese Gauncho T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cool Katz S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Damned If You Do TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Damned If You Don't TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dueling Grandmas S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Factional Infighting TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fat Black Chuck S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flue Shot S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hair Today Gone Tomorrow S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hairy Virgin TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hue and Cry S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
I'm hungry, I've got to poop! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Inquisition, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Jezabel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knee Replacement S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lamenites S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lincoln's Lament T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Luck of the Irish S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Moral Dilemma S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nemesis S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nephites S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Not Arrgh S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pain in the Cass! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Parking Slot TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Perky's Playground S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Presidential Centerfold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Presidential Warfare T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Puppet Strings S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Quickening, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Redneck Wonderland S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Rock!! n' Roll T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Roosterhead Ridge TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sand Stoner Reverse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short and Dorky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shotgun Baptism S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Skin Graft S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stick to your Guns S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tape Up V5 6C
Unknown T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Washingtons' Wig T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wave, The S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
West Wave TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Where Egos Dare S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,439 total, 11/month
Shared By: Chuck on Aug 24, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


28 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route starts in the 5.10 range with deep pocket. At the second bolt the You move to thin edges. The roof starts at the third bolt. Use the right corner to lay back and hit the fourth bolt. The back under the roof for a daring mantle to a comfortable ledge and a two bolt anchor.

Location

Park at the last parking lot. This is route "S" in the guilde book. About 100 Yard from the west end of the Gap on the south facing wall. The roof sweeps out about 25 feet up. Just left of the long 10' roof of a project route.

Protection

Four quick draw plus anchor
Four bolts to chain anchor

Photos

dlasley
  5.11b
dlasley  
  5.11b
After the last clip before the chains, you can get a heel toehook in the pod before you shoot for the top which makes this move way easier May 25, 2015
Gordon Larsen
St. George, Utah
 
Gordon Larsen   St. George, Utah
 
My son Marty really liked this climb. You can make the mantle a bit easier if you veer to the right. Good falls if you want to push your efforts at sport climbing. Jan 11, 2014
I was thinking the grade was a little soft too, but maybe just because the route is so short. I think the crux moves around the roof section are possibly 11.d, but it's not even close to sustained 11 climbing. Really fun route nonetheless. I got a good knee lock to move my hands to the roof. To pull the roof, I hooked my right heel. Mar 5, 2013
Nathan Marsh
st. george utah
  5.11c/d
Nathan Marsh   st. george utah
  5.11c/d
agree with Marius, that first bolt is pointless. in fact it is almost more of a fall risk to clip it than to skip it. Other than that fun route and well bolted. just out of curiosity, any beta on the roof? it took me two tries to get it, but it still didn't feel pretty. Also i scrapped a lot of skin off my arms.. not sure if it is just me, but i would recommend a long sleeve shirt. Nov 2, 2012
Marius vanderMerwe
Saint George, UT
  5.11c
Marius vanderMerwe   Saint George, UT
  5.11c
The first bolt placement needed to be at least a foot higher to be of value, but other than that a great and fun climb (if a bit soft for the grade). Jul 21, 2011
Asa King
Salt Lake City, Ut
 
Asa King   Salt Lake City, Ut
 
This is an awesome climb, the mantle near the top is a lot of fun. Oct 18, 2010