Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,629 total · 11/month
Shared By: Chuck on Aug 24, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Description

This route starts in the 5.10 range with deep pocket. At the second bolt the You move to thin edges. The roof starts at the third bolt. Use the right corner to lay back and hit the fourth bolt. The back under the roof for a daring mantle to a comfortable ledge and a two bolt anchor.

Location

Park at the last parking lot. This is route "S" in the guilde book. About 100 Yard from the west end of the Gap on the south facing wall. The roof sweeps out about 25 feet up. Just left of the long 10' roof of a project route.

Protection

Four quick draw plus anchor
Four bolts to chain anchor

Photos

Asa King
Salt Lake City, Ut
 
Asa King   Salt Lake City, Ut
 
This is an awesome climb, the mantle near the top is a lot of fun. Oct 18, 2010
Marius vanderMerwe
Saint George, UT
  5.11c
Marius vanderMerwe   Saint George, UT
  5.11c
The first bolt placement needed to be at least a foot higher to be of value, but other than that a great and fun climb (if a bit soft for the grade). Jul 21, 2011
Nathan Marsh
st. george utah
  5.11c/d
Nathan Marsh   st. george utah
  5.11c/d
agree with Marius, that first bolt is pointless. in fact it is almost more of a fall risk to clip it than to skip it. Other than that fun route and well bolted. just out of curiosity, any beta on the roof? it took me two tries to get it, but it still didn't feel pretty. Also i scrapped a lot of skin off my arms.. not sure if it is just me, but i would recommend a long sleeve shirt. Nov 2, 2012
I was thinking the grade was a little soft too, but maybe just because the route is so short. I think the crux moves around the roof section are possibly 11.d, but it's not even close to sustained 11 climbing. Really fun route nonetheless. I got a good knee lock to move my hands to the roof. To pull the roof, I hooked my right heel. Mar 5, 2013
Gordon Larsen
St. George, UT
 
Gordon Larsen   St. George, UT
 
My son Marty really liked this climb. You can make the mantle a bit easier if you veer to the right. Good falls if you want to push your efforts at sport climbing. Jan 11, 2014
dlasley
  5.11b
dlasley  
  5.11b
After the last clip before the chains, you can get a heel toehook in the pod before you shoot for the top which makes this move way easier May 25, 2015