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Redneck Wonderland
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.3 from 21
votes
Routes in Green Valley Gap
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#BATTERYCHARGE V3 6A |
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12 Gauge Conversion S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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2 Weeks Notice S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Australian Monk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Bare Necessities S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Beggars and Choosers S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Benefit of the Doubt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Birth Canal V3 6A |
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Bitter Recriminations S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Brazilian Ninjas T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Butterflies Arete TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Buttkutt T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Carpet TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Cass's Pain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chilly V0+ 4+ |
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Chinese Gauncho T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Cool Katz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Damned If You Do TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Damned If You Don't TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Dueling Grandmas S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Factional Infighting TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fat Black Chuck S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fat Black Walla S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Goodbye Zone 6 TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hair Today Gone Tomorrow S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Hairy Virgin TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hot Grandma S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Hue and Cry S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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I'm hungry and I have to poop! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Inquisition, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Jezabel T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Knee Replacement S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Kool Kats Chimney TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Lamenites S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Lincoln's Lament T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Luck of the Irish S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Messing Around T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Moral Dilemma S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Nemesis S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Nephites S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Not Arrgh S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Offering, The TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pain in the Cass! S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Parking Slot T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Perky's Playground S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pinball alternate start TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pinball “Flue Shot” S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Presidential Centerfold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Presidential Warfare T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Puppet Strings S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Quickening, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Redneck Wonderland S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rock!! n' Roll T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Roosterhead Ridge TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sand Stoner Reverse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Short and Dorky S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Shotgun Baptism S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Size Doesn't Matter S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ski-Wompus S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Skin Graft S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Smoke and Mirrors S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Stick to your Guns S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tape Up 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V5 6C |
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Trumped Up Ego S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Unknown Slab TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Washingtons' Wig T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wave Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wave, The S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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West Wave TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Where Egos Dare S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 30 ft (9 m) |
| GPS: | 37.08852, -113.63779 |
| FA: | M. Nad and J. Nad |
| Page Views: | 1,262 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Ken Noyce on Feb 20, 2015 |
| Admins: | Fallon Rowe, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: PRECIPITATION AND WET ROCK
Details
The sandstone here is easily damaged when wet. Please allow at least 24-48 hours before climbing after any precipitation. If the ground is at all damp, please do not climb on any local sandstone. Consider nearby options on basalt, limestone, granite, or plastic instead.
Description
This route looks really fun (and easy) from the ground, but ends up packing quite the punch once you get on it. Cruiser climbing leads to the second bolt where the business starts. Make a hard deadpoint to a sloping crimp with your right hand, then get your feet high and dyno to the jugs above. The guidebook says 5.12b/c and that the crux involves pinching a tiny cobble. Well, I didn't find any tiny cobble, and the rating felt upper end 5.12c to me, so maybe something broke since the FA.
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