Type: TR, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 665 total · 12/month
Shared By: kenr on Feb 17, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route

3 Opinions

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Lots of thoughtful interesting moves in the first twenty feet, then fun easy moves above.

Up directly through the nose above the "practice" anchor, staying left of the "Australian Monk" cracks. Reach a platform, then finish over the roosterhead.

warning: As of 2018 this rock has not been climbed or tested much, so not unlikely if some of it breaks loose. Therefore the climber should wear a helmet, and the belayer and any other persons should stay way off to one side or the other - (not underneath the climber) - (also not anywhere out in front of the route, because falling rocks can bounce and ricochet way out away from the wall).


A foot or two left (west) of the low "practice" anchor (one piton + one old bolt + one newer bolt) on left side of slab with the easier routes ("Chinese Guancho" / "Texas Jug" and "Brazilian Ninja") which is just west from the access scramble down from the north-side parking.

- - > See sector topo Photo
. . . . or Left side topo Photo


Top-Roping from the bolt anchor for the climb to the right of this, supplemented with Trad directional (perhaps sling around horn?)

Protection for trad Leading is unknown and likely inadequate.