Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: T. Goss, D. Binaz
Page Views: 718 total · 6/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Aug 24, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

A Dangerous and Bold undertaking.

This poorly bolted, mis-leading, death route will cause jaw dropping or denture dropping results. I would recommend being very solid at the grade before leading this route. Hard clips with deck potential mark the first 15 feet. A tense and very steep finish keep you on your toes. Relentless...

Location

At the second most significant buttress from the entrance of the Gap, Dueling Grandmas sits recessed and on the right side of the small wall. Its most recognized by its up and left sweeping wave 10 feet off the ground.

Protection

Four randomly placed bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

Photos

RHeiner Heiner
SLC, UT
5.11a R
RHeiner Heiner   SLC, UT
5.11a R
Quality rock with great moves, pretty sequential. It's a scary lead, but also very easy to set up TR on. If you're a 5.11 leader it would be a good idea to work out the moves on TR before leading. It's a rewarding redpoint that's worth your time. Feb 13, 2011
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
  5.10c R
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
  5.10c R
We just pre clipped the 3rd clip with our trusty stick clip. This could have been bolted better to entice you to get on it. Mar 9, 2012
Jacob Pawlak
Manchester, NH
  5.11a PG13
Jacob Pawlak   Manchester, NH
  5.11a PG13
A pretty fun top rope climb, I don't know how I would've felt leading it since the bolts are pretty funky but there are some fun moves on this route. Jul 21, 2015
Chan P.
Cottonwood Heights, UT
Chan P.   Cottonwood Heights, UT
I suck at climbing, but what happened to the holds between clip two and three? I made it up Fat Black Chuck (to the left of this and 5.11b) but couldn't get to the third bolt on this. I can see there's a possible side-pull and then 2-3 feet up is a small under-cling. It looks possible to go off route to the left? But that stuff is on the route for Fat Black Chuck. It looks like there have been some holds that have been ripped off which would make a huge difference, but like I said, Idk. I'd appreciate it if someone else with more experience and clearly a better climber than me would give an updated report on this route... Sep 20, 2018