Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: B Roth
Page Views: 519 total · 7/month
Shared By: B Roth on Mar 10, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

Located in between Luck of the Irish and Moral Dilema. Bouldery start leads to easier 5.9 climbing up top. I think the crux is moving past the first bolt.

Protection

quickdraws

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Nathan Marsh
st. george utah
  5.11-
Nathan Marsh   st. george utah
  5.11-
I've climbed this a couple times in the past. It's an ok route. Crux is definitely between bolts one and two. really eases up after that(5.8ish). For me those first few moves felt much harder than 10D, I struggled a bit to get this route down clean but had very little problem with its neighbor route moral dilemma(11b). i think through that first two bolts is in the 11 range not 10 range, then again sometimes i struggle to even tie my shoes, so i may be way off, but that's just my opinion. Make sure your belayer is in a good position as you work those first couple moves as a fall can pull on them funky, also a climber can fall on top of the belayer(you can probably stick clip the second to avoid this) Mar 14, 2013
dlasley  
much harder than 10d. feels like 11c to me Jan 22, 2015
Kendall
St George, UT
  5.10d PG13
Kendall   St George, UT
  5.10d PG13
Bouldery start, but if you have the moves in your skillset, it shouldn't be higher that a 10d.

Alternate start for beginners following on TR: start left, then swing over to the route past the hard start.

Belay tip: have climber clip the first bolt, then position yourself 10 feet below it down off of the rocks where the climber starts climbing. This makes catching a fall on bolt 1 easier and safer. May 9, 2017