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Routes in Green Valley Gap

12 Gauge Conversion TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
2 Weeks Notice S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Australian Monk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bare Necessities S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beggars and Choosers S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Benefit of the Doubt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bitter Recriminations S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Brazilian Ninjas T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Butterflies Arete TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Buttkutt T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chinese Gauncho T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cool Katz S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Damned If You Do TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Damned If You Don't TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dueling Grandmas S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Factional Infighting TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fat Black Chuck S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flue Shot S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hair Today Gone Tomorrow S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hairy Virgin TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hue and Cry S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
I'm hungry, I've got to poop! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Inquisition, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Jezabel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knee Replacement S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lamenites S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lincoln's Lament T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Luck of the Irish S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Moral Dilemma S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nemesis S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nephites S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Not Arrgh S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pain in the Cass! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Parking Slot TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Perky's Playground S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Presidential Centerfold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Presidential Warfare T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Puppet Strings S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Quickening, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Redneck Wonderland S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Rock!! n' Roll T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Roosterhead Ridge TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sand Stoner Reverse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short and Dorky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shotgun Baptism S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Skin Graft S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stick to your Guns S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tape Up V5 6C
Unknown T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Washingtons' Wig T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wave, The S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
West Wave TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Where Egos Dare S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: TR, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 215 total, 10/month
Shared By: kenr on Feb 17, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Sustained thoughtful arete moves for the first twenty feet (with sidepulls and footholds on both sides of the crest). Then easier fun moves up the "razor" to the top.

It's interesting enough to start on the face about four feet left from the arete for the first couple of moves, then move right to join the arete.
. . (Variation: Starting directly on the arete also goes, but significantly harder than the rest of the route).
Straight up the crest of arete, then finish up the razor.

As of 2016 this rock has not been climbed or tested much, so not unlikely if some of it breaks loose. Therefore the climber should wear a helmet, and the belayer and any other persons should stay way off to one side or the other - (not underneath the climber) - (also not anywhere out in front of the route, because falling rocks can bounce and ricochet way out away from the wall).

Location

About fifteen feet left (west) from the "practice" anchor (one piton + one old bolt + one newer bolt) on left side of slab with the easier routes ("Chinese Guancho" / "Texas Jug" and "Brazilian Ninja") which is just west from the access scramble down from the north-side parking.

The Butterflies arete forms the left side of the narrow gully / wide crack of the "Parking Slot" route.

see Sector Topo photo
and Left side Topo photo

Protection

Top-Roping from the bolt anchor for the climb to the right of this, supplemented with Trad directional (perhaps sling around horn?)

Protection for trad Leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

Photos

kenr
 
kenr  
 
Our local indoor gym sets some very fun moderate-difficulty Arete routes. I always tell people to be sure to climb and enjoy those moderate indoor arete routes, because they'll never find an interesting outdoor arete at a difficulty less than 5.11.
But now I've found this arete of the butterflies.

. (Not at all like l'ArĂȘte des Papillons). Feb 18, 2016