All Locations > Utah > Southwest Utah > Saint George > Green Valley Gap

Butterflies Arete

Name: Butterflies Arete
Rating: 2.0

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British

Routes in Green Valley Gap

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	#BATTERYCHARGE V3 6A
	12 Gauge Conversion S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	2 Weeks Notice S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Australian Monk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Bare Necessities S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Beggars and Choosers S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Benefit of the Doubt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Birds of Prey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Birth Canal V3 6A
	Bitter Recriminations S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Brazilian Ninjas T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Butterflies Arete TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Buttkutt T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Cass's Pain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Chilly V0+ 4+
	Chinese Gauncho T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Cool Katz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Damned If You Do TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Damned If You Don't TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Dueling Grandmas S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Factional Infighting TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Fat Black Chuck S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Fat Black Walla S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Fear No Evil S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Hair Today Gone Tomorrow S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Hairy Virgin TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Hot Grandma S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Hue and Cry S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	I'm hungry and I have to poop! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Inquisition, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Jezabel T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Knee Replacement S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Kool Kats Chimney TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Lamenites S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Lincoln's Lament T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Luck of the Irish S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Moral Dilemma S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Nemesis S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Nephites S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Not Arrgh S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Offering, The TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Pain in the Cass! S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Parking Slot T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Perky's Playground S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Pinball alternate start TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Pinball “Flue Shot” S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Presidential Centerfold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Presidential Warfare T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Puppet Strings S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Quickening, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Redneck Wonderland S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Rock!! n' Roll T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Roosterhead Ridge TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Sand Stoner Reverse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Short and Dorky S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Shotgun Baptism S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Size Doesn't Matter S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Ski-Wompus S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Skin Graft S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Smoke and Mirrors S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Stick to your Guns S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Tape Up 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V5 6C
	Trumped Up Ego S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Unknown T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Unknown Slab TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Washingtons' Wig T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Wave Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Wave, The S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	West Wave TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Where Egos Dare S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
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Type:	TR, 35 ft (11 m)
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	1,855 total · 17/month
Shared By:	kenr on Feb 17, 2016
Admins:	Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: PRECIPITATION AND WET ROCK Details

The sandstone here is easily damaged when wet. Please allow at least 24-48 hours before climbing after any precipitation. If the ground is at all damp, please do not climb on any local sandstone. Consider nearby options on basalt, limestone, granite, or plastic instead.

Description

Sustained thoughtful moves for the first twenty feet (with sidepulls and footholds on both sides of the crest). Then easier fun moves up the "razor" to the top.

Start up the gully to right bottom of arete. About five feet up, step horizontal left over onto crest of the arete (onto unseen big foothold using unseen big handhold).
. . . Variation 1 (like 5.9): Start on the face about four feet left from the arete for the first couple of moves, then move right to join the arete.
. . . Variation 2 (harder): Start directly on the arete.

Straight up the crest of arete, then finish up the razor.

warning: As of 2018 this rock has not been climbed or tested much, so not unlikely if some of it breaks loose. Therefore the climber should wear a helmet, and the belayer and any other persons should stay way off to one side or the other - (not underneath the climber) - (also not anywhere out in front of the route, because falling rocks can bounce and ricochet way out away from the wall).

Location

About fifteen feet left (west) from the "practice" anchor (one piton + one old bolt + one newer bolt) on left side of slab with the easier routes ("Chinese Guancho" / "Texas Jug" and "Brazilian Ninja") which is just west from the access scramble down from the north-side parking.

The light-brown Butterflies arete forms the left side of the narrow gully / wide crack of the "Parking Slot" route.

- - > See sector topo Photo

. . . . also left side topo Photo

Protection

If Top-Roping from the bolt anchor for the climb to the right of this, need to supplement with Trad directional (perhaps sling around horn?) to protect against a falling climber swinging sideway and hitting a protruding rock.
Or perhaps better to construct a natural anchor which is more above this arete.

Protection for trad Leading is unknown and likely inadequate.