Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||TR, 35 ft (11 m)|
|Page Views:||1,383 total · 20/month|
|Shared By:||kenr on Feb 17, 2016|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
Start up the gully to right bottom of arete. About five feet up, step horizontal left over onto crest of the arete (onto unseen big foothold using unseen big handhold).
. . . Variation 1 (like 5.9): Start on the face about four feet left from the arete for the first couple of moves, then move right to join the arete.
. . . Variation 2 (harder): Start directly on the arete.
Straight up the crest of arete, then finish up the razor.
warning: As of 2018 this rock has not been climbed or tested much, so not unlikely if some of it breaks loose. Therefore the climber should wear a helmet, and the belayer and any other persons should stay way off to one side or the other - (not underneath the climber) - (also not anywhere out in front of the route, because falling rocks can bounce and ricochet way out away from the wall).
The light-brown Butterflies arete forms the left side of the narrow gully / wide crack of the "Parking Slot" route.
- - > See sector topo Photo
. . . . also left side topo Photo
Or perhaps better to construct a natural anchor which is more above this arete.
Protection for trad Leading is unknown and likely inadequate.