Type: Sport, TR, 30 ft
FA: T. Goss, T. Perkins
Page Views: 2,899 total · 19/month
Shared By: Chuck on Aug 27, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

40 Opinions

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Big fun moves on a pocketed sandstone arete. This route is in the shade by 1200. Possible to do in summer. Longer draws will reduce rope drag.


By the 3rd main pull off. on the east side of the arete.


Five Quick Draws + Anchor
Five Bolts + 2 bolt anchor. No chains or rap rings.


Yeah, what's up with removing that first bolt? The sandy-ness does not lend itself well with committing to that move. I couldn't commit and backed off. It seems like many of the anchors on that cliff band have glue on them to keep people from taking them. still one of the warmer spots on a cold day in st george. Nov 4, 2007
Bret Crapo
Springville, UT
Bret Crapo   Springville, UT
My favorite in the gap! The missing first bolt does create quite a dillema..... Brave the scary beginning, and you will be rewarded! May 12, 2008
St George, UT
Kendall   St George, UT
This is a great climb. I think it's fairly easily identified in the book. The rating may be a bit too high though, but that's just my opinion. Apr 1, 2009
Littleton, CO
Hendrixson   Littleton, CO
Longer draws will reduce rope drag? How much drag can you possibly get on a 30' sport route? Anyhoo fun route. Mar 19, 2012
Nathan Marsh
st. george utah
Nathan Marsh   st. george utah
i was staring at this and had my drill and bolts in my car and was about to re-add the first bolt(i hate reading about people complaining about old or missing bolts and nothing ever being done about it, takes 5 mins and $3).. anyways the more i looked at it the more i thought that re adding a first bolt would not help much... it really doesn't protect much of the climb other than preventing someone from rolling down the hill, you would however still deck. so i can kinda see why the first bolt was removed.. too many people trying to go for the second clip and taking nasty falls "trusting the first bolt". The "new" first bolt is very dicey to clip, but once clipped protects well. Maybe this is a climb that needs a stick clip? i wouldn't recommend trying to clip that first and i don't think adding the original first helps much either. I dunno, what is everyone else thoughts? Dec 4, 2012
stick clip for the "onsight" - go for it on the redpoint. once you know the initial moves, getting to that first bolt with a draw pre-hung is fine.

there was a lot of stress put on the original first bolt. given where the belayer stands versus where the climbing is...
given all the falling, hanging, nature of the rock, etc; that bolt just got yarded on where it was. Dec 4, 2012
Nathan Marsh
st. george utah
Nathan Marsh   st. george utah
someone re added the first bolt on this route. It was moved a few feet to the left and is actually in a much better position to protect a fall going for the 2nd. Mar 26, 2013
Jon K
St. George, UT
Jon K   St. George, UT
There are at least quicklinks at the top now. This could be a classic if it were more consistent. Worth a climb if you must find yourself at the gap. May 24, 2014
santa clara, utah
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
The first few moves of this feel really difficult and athletic, but they are awesome. At the third bolt, there is a really big jug, hidden in a slot to the left that opens up that section. This is truly a great climb. Mar 1, 2016
Chan P.
Cottonwood Heights, UT
Chan P.   Cottonwood Heights, UT
Just stick clip the first bolt for safety and then you're set for the rest of the climb. Jun 6, 2018