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Routes in Green Valley Gap

12 Gauge Conversion TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
2 Weeks Notice S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Australian Monk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bare Necessities S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beggars and Choosers S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Benefit of the Doubt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bitter Recriminations S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Brazilian Ninjas T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Butterflies Arete TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Buttkutt T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chinese Gauncho T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cool Katz S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Damned If You Do TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Damned If You Don't TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dueling Grandmas S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Factional Infighting TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fat Black Chuck S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flue Shot S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hair Today Gone Tomorrow S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hairy Virgin TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hue and Cry S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
I'm hungry, I've got to poop! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Inquisition, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Jezabel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knee Replacement S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lamenites S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lincoln's Lament T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Luck of the Irish S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Moral Dilemma S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nemesis S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nephites S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Not Arrgh S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pain in the Cass! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Parking Slot TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Perky's Playground S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Presidential Centerfold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Presidential Warfare T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Puppet Strings S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Quickening, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Redneck Wonderland S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Rock!! n' Roll T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Roosterhead Ridge TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sand Stoner Reverse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short and Dorky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shotgun Baptism S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Skin Graft S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stick to your Guns S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tape Up V5 6C
Unknown T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Washingtons' Wig T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wave, The S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
West Wave TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Where Egos Dare S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, TR, 30 ft
FA: T. Goss, T. Perkins
Page Views: 2,559 total, 19/month
Shared By: Chuck on Aug 27, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Big fun moves on a pocketed sandstone arete. This route is in the shade by 1200. Possible to do in summer. Longer draws will reduce rope drag.

Location

By the 3rd main pull off. on the east side of the arete.

Protection

Five Quick Draws + Anchor
Five Bolts + 2 bolt anchor. No chains or rap rings.
jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
  5.11b
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
  5.11b
The first few moves of this feel really difficult and athletic, but they are awesome. At the third bolt, there is a really big jug, hidden in a slot to the left that opens up that section. This is truly a great climb. Mar 1, 2016
Jon K
St. George, UT
 
Jon K   St. George, UT
 
There are at least quicklinks at the top now. This could be a classic if it were more consistent. Worth a climb if you must find yourself at the gap. May 24, 2014
Nathan Marsh
st. george utah
  5.11b
Nathan Marsh   st. george utah
  5.11b
someone re added the first bolt on this route. It was moved a few feet to the left and is actually in a much better position to protect a fall going for the 2nd. Mar 26, 2013
grk10vq    
stick clip for the "onsight" - go for it on the redpoint. once you know the initial moves, getting to that first bolt with a draw pre-hung is fine.

there was a lot of stress put on the original first bolt. given where the belayer stands versus where the climbing is...
given all the falling, hanging, nature of the rock, etc; that bolt just got yarded on where it was. Dec 4, 2012
Nathan Marsh
st. george utah
  5.11b
Nathan Marsh   st. george utah
  5.11b
i was staring at this and had my drill and bolts in my car and was about to re-add the first bolt(i hate reading about people complaining about old or missing bolts and nothing ever being done about it, takes 5 mins and $3).. anyways the more i looked at it the more i thought that re adding a first bolt would not help much... it really doesn't protect much of the climb other than preventing someone from rolling down the hill, you would however still deck. so i can kinda see why the first bolt was removed.. too many people trying to go for the second clip and taking nasty falls "trusting the first bolt". The "new" first bolt is very dicey to clip, but once clipped protects well. Maybe this is a climb that needs a stick clip? i wouldn't recommend trying to clip that first and i don't think adding the original first helps much either. I dunno, what is everyone else thoughts? Dec 4, 2012
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.11b
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.11b
Longer draws will reduce rope drag? How much drag can you possibly get on a 30' sport route? Anyhoo fun route. Mar 19, 2012
Kendall
St George, UT
 
Kendall   St George, UT
 
This is a great climb. I think it's fairly easily identified in the book. The rating may be a bit too high though, but that's just my opinion. Apr 1, 2009
Bret Crapo
Springville, UT
 
Bret Crapo   Springville, UT
 
My favorite in the gap! The missing first bolt does create quite a dillema..... Brave the scary beginning, and you will be rewarded! May 12, 2008
Yeah, what's up with removing that first bolt? The sandy-ness does not lend itself well with committing to that move. I couldn't commit and backed off. It seems like many of the anchors on that cliff band have glue on them to keep people from taking them. still one of the warmer spots on a cold day in st george. Nov 4, 2007