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Routes in Green Valley Gap

12 Gauge Conversion TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
2 Weeks Notice S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Australian Monk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bare Necessities S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beggars and Choosers S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Benefit of the Doubt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bitter Recriminations S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Brazilian Ninjas T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Butterflies Arete TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Buttkutt T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chinese Gauncho T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cool Katz S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Damned If You Do TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Damned If You Don't TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dueling Grandmas S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Factional Infighting TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Fat Black Chuck S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flue Shot S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hair Today Gone Tomorrow S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hairy Virgin TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hue and Cry S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
I'm hungry, I've got to poop! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Inquisition, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Jezabel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knee Replacement S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kool Kats Chimney TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lamenites S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lincoln's Lament T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Luck of the Irish S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Moral Dilemma S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nemesis S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nephites S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Not Arrgh S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pain in the Cass! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Parking Slot TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Perky's Playground S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Presidential Centerfold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Presidential Warfare T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Puppet Strings S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Quickening, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Redneck Wonderland S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Rock!! n' Roll T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Roosterhead Ridge TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sand Stoner Reverse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short and Dorky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shotgun Baptism S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Skin Graft S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stick to your Guns S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tape Up V5 6C
Unknown T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Washingtons' Wig T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wave, The S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
West Wave TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Where Egos Dare S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: T. Goss, D. Biniaz
Page Views: 2,509 total · 18/month
Shared By: Chuck on Aug 24, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description [Edit]

This route starts under a 15' long roof. Use the crack around the left corner for your hands. At the third bolt drop down under the roof. The holds here have been cemented to keep them from breaking off. The crux is from here to the next bolt. follow the arete up to a 2 chain anchor.

Location [Edit]

About 100 yard from west end of gap on south facing wall. This route in immediately right of Hair Today Gone Tomorrow. It is the most obvious roof with three bolts under the roof.

Protection [Edit]

Five draws plus anchor
Fixed Bolts. 2 Chain anchor

Photos

Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
This is not a project...The roof is very easy, and contrived....the crux is turning the lip. Dec 11, 2007
ZachBradford
  5.12-
ZachBradford  
  5.12-
The route is named "Stick to your Guns"

FA: T. Goss, D. Biniaz
Goss Guide Book gives it a 12c. Mar 18, 2009
Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12b
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12b
This route is very fun, regardless of the grade or glued holds. It might be a good idea to anchor the belayer to prevent a possible ground fall if the climber was to fall when turning the lip or fumbling the clip above the lip. Mar 7, 2010
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
12a seems about right for this climb. I felt is was easier then sandstoner reverse though, so could be 11d. 12c is very generous. Super fun climb. Mar 7, 2011
jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
  5.12a
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
  5.12a
Any beta on how to turn the lip? what are the holds like above the lip? Where should you clip from once you come around it? Mar 30, 2011
ZachBradford
  5.12-
ZachBradford  
  5.12-
Beta at lip is the crux toss to a deep 2-3 finger pocket. Then proceed up the face on the best holds you can find. They are better to the left of the bolt line if I remember correctly. Mar 31, 2011

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