Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: T. Goss, D. Biniaz
Page Views: 2,585 total · 17/month
Shared By: Chuck on Aug 24, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


25 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route starts under a 15' long roof. Use the crack around the left corner for your hands. At the third bolt drop down under the roof. The holds here have been cemented to keep them from breaking off. The crux is from here to the next bolt. follow the arete up to a 2 chain anchor.

Location

About 100 yard from west end of gap on south facing wall. This route in immediately right of Hair Today Gone Tomorrow. It is the most obvious roof with three bolts under the roof.

Protection

Five draws plus anchor
Fixed Bolts. 2 Chain anchor

Photos

Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
This is not a project...The roof is very easy, and contrived....the crux is turning the lip. Dec 11, 2007
ZachBradford
  5.12-
ZachBradford  
  5.12-
The route is named "Stick to your Guns"

FA: T. Goss, D. Biniaz
Goss Guide Book gives it a 12c. Mar 18, 2009
Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12b
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12b
This route is very fun, regardless of the grade or glued holds. It might be a good idea to anchor the belayer to prevent a possible ground fall if the climber was to fall when turning the lip or fumbling the clip above the lip. Mar 7, 2010
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
12a seems about right for this climb. I felt is was easier then sandstoner reverse though, so could be 11d. 12c is very generous. Super fun climb. Mar 7, 2011
jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
  5.12a
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
  5.12a
Any beta on how to turn the lip? what are the holds like above the lip? Where should you clip from once you come around it? Mar 30, 2011
ZachBradford
  5.12-
ZachBradford  
  5.12-
Beta at lip is the crux toss to a deep 2-3 finger pocket. Then proceed up the face on the best holds you can find. They are better to the left of the bolt line if I remember correctly. Mar 31, 2011