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Routes in Long Point

204 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
665 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
A Bit Worn Out S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Aryan Race S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Big Bang T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blood Flower S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blood Trail S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Booger Sugar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chopping Bloc S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cousteau's Crux S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flake and Bake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hell Hound S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Hillbilly Sex Farm S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Holy Grail S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Honemeisters T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Houseboy T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Liturgy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mononucleosis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Opium of the People S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Penance S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Porter for Recorder S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rock Opera S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Route with a Ranger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Scientific Paws S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Serial Driller S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slingin' Yayo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Speaking Fire T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Stumbling Dice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sun Glory S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tongue Lashing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wendigo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zinger T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Mike Williams
Page Views: 263 total, 10/month
Shared By: BrianWS on Nov 22, 2015
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

More excellent lakebed stone on this one. Start out on somewhat dirty rock, making large moves between small edges followed by a dynamic move just above the 2nd bolt. Alternatively, you can climb the easy corner crack a few feet to the right and traverse back in.
At the first roof, bear right and make another lengthy traverse back left to the fourth bolt. what follows is more 5.11 climbing, punctuated by a very distinct crux involving bad crimps, a mono-like crimp/pocket/slot, and the most comically bizarre feature you'll ever use on route.
Post crux, more 5.11 climbing on well featured stone leads to the anchors.


Seriously, this route is amazing. Plus, the namesake feature is one of the oddest, lewdest holds you'll see at the New. Do it!

Location

First line of bolts to the right of Chopping Block's arĂȘte.

Protection

8 bolts + anchors

Photos

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