Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Mike Williams
Page Views: 413 total · 10/month
Shared By: BrianWS on Nov 22, 2015
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

More excellent lakebed stone on this one. Start out on somewhat dirty rock, making large moves between small edges followed by a dynamic move just above the 2nd bolt. Alternatively, you can climb the easy corner crack a few feet to the right and traverse back in.
At the first roof, bear right and make another lengthy traverse back left to the fourth bolt. what follows is more 5.11 climbing, punctuated by a very distinct crux involving bad crimps, a mono-like crimp/pocket/slot, and the most comically bizarre feature you'll ever use on route.
Post crux, more 5.11 climbing on well featured stone leads to the anchors.

Seriously, this route is amazing. Plus, the namesake feature is one of the oddest, lewdest holds you'll see at the New. Do it!

Location

First line of bolts to the right of Chopping Block's arĂȘte.

Protection

8 bolts + anchors

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