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Routes in Long Point

204 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
665 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
A Bit Worn Out S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Aryan Race S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Big Bang T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blood Flower S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blood Trail S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Booger Sugar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chopping Bloc S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cousteau's Crux S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flake and Bake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hell Hound S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Hillbilly Sex Farm S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Holy Grail S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Honemeisters T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Houseboy T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Liturgy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mononucleosis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Opium of the People S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Penance S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Porter for Recorder S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rock Opera S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Route with a Ranger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Scientific Paws S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Serial Driller S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slingin' Yayo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Speaking Fire T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Stumbling Dice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sun Glory S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tongue Lashing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wendigo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zinger T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mike Williams
Page Views: 1,665 total · 35/month
Shared By: Chris Whisenhunt on Feb 20, 2014
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Wow. Wow. Wow. This is a contender for best 5.11 in the area. The first two bolts were already there when Mikey finished it off, so don't judge him for those two. Well actually never mind that; judge him all day. The second bolt is pretty committing so be careful. After that make your way up the arete to the first boulder problem that utilizes perfectly placed feet, a sidepull and some CRIMPS! No worries though, jugs aren't that far away. From here dance your way up to a slabby area with a slap-you-in-the-face-if-5.11-is-your-limit-crux. Make a few more moves through some horizontals and pull the last roof to clip the chains. This route is wet at the top if it's rained a lot lately, but it's still doable. This is an absolute MUST DO and to me rivals every other 5.11 I have been on here. Beautiful rock, movement, goes to the top of the cliff, and the location couldn't get any better. If you want to know how the route got it's name go buy Mikey's book here.

Location

Come down the water covered slab in the middle of long point and walk climbers left for 5 minutes until you come to a beautiful left facing arete. This is it.

Protection

8 bolts with a 2 bolt anchor

Photos

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camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
This is without a doubt one of the best 5.11s in the entire region. There is no section that is less than perfect. I will say that directions to the waterfall/slab/rope descent to the cliff base can be spotty, so don't despair if you get lost trying to find this thing. It's about a 10 minute walk along the base downstream (climber's left) of the obvious Movie Screen feature. Feb 23, 2014