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Routes in Long Point
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204 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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665 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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A Bit Worn Out S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Aryan Race S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Beach Boy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Big Bang T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Billy Bass Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Blood Flower S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Blood Trail S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Booger Sugar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chopping Bloc S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cousteau's Crux S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Crackatoa T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crocodiles are Coming S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Eye Booger T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flake and Bake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hell Hound S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Hillbilly Sex Farm S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hog Slaughter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Holy Grail S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Honemeisters T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Honey Badger S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Houseboy T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Kirkules S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Krokodili Dolaze S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Liturgy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Low Hanging Fruit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Mononucleosis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Non Sequitur T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Not Wide Enough T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Odin's Eye Patch T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Opium of the People S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Penance S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pieyo Kury Pieyo S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Porter for Recorder S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Redneck Logic S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Rock Opera S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Route with a Ranger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Scientific Paws S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Serial Driller S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Slingin' Yayo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Snuffed Out Cat T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Spartacus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Star Crunch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stumbling Dice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sun Glory S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Swiss Roll T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tongue Lashing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Transgressions T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Turn and Cough T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wendigo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Zinger T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Craig Luebben, Late 90s |
| Page Views: | 53 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Alec Manougian on Nov 15, 2020 |
| Admins: | Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
Your Star Rating:
Description
Obvious corner crack, often dirty. William's guidebook has this at 8+, 1-star but it seems that grade only represents the crack portion. At the standing rest about 45-50ft up, the chimney and stemming moves are a bit more technical and delicate than an 8+ grade would warrant. If this was cleaned up and an bolt anchor right under the lip, it would be one for people to come here for!
Protection
No Anchor. to protect comfortably, bring #0.3-#4 with doubles in #1-#3. You could use this as an excuse to bring the #5,6,7,8 haha, it would surely take them but its not necessary. There is a grouping trees about 6ft back from the lip that was suitable for a rope anchor/rappel as of Nov 2020. I suggest top-down belaying the follower, then both rapping off the tree.
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