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Routes in Long Point

204 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
665 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
A Bit Worn Out S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Aryan Race S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Big Bang T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blood Flower S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blood Trail S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Booger Sugar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chopping Bloc S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cousteau's Crux S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crackatoa T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flake and Bake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hell Hound S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Hillbilly Sex Farm S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Holy Grail S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Honemeisters T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Houseboy T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Liturgy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mononucleosis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Opium of the People S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Penance S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Porter for Recorder S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rock Opera S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Route with a Ranger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Scientific Paws S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Serial Driller S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slingin' Yayo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stumbling Dice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sun Glory S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tongue Lashing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wendigo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zinger T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Jim Taylor
Page Views: 217 total · 4/month
Shared By: Chris Whisenhunt on Feb 23, 2014
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Description

Climb through the first two bolts on sketchy mud-covered holds until you are above the water line. From here work your up the arete utilizing a cool rock over onto the left face and some moves through crimps to an awkward roof. From here reach out right to a hold on the arete and bump to a jug. Pull around and up, clip the bolt and one last lock off leads to the anchors. Pretty fun and a good warmup for some of the harder routes around. I gave this route PG-13, because blowing the second clip would end with a climber on the ground and the rock through that section is fragile and covered in old dry mud.

Location

From the slab rope walk climber's left for about 25 yards and it's the obvious right-facing arete. Lower down.

Protection

5 bolts with a 2 bolt anchor.

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Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
 
Chris Whisenhunt   Fayetteville, WV  
 
I have seen two people, both solid 5.12 climbers, fall on this thing between the first and second bolt because of the rock breaking. Be CAREFUL going to the second bolt. If you blow up you will more than likely hit the ground. It could really use another bolt between 1 and 2. Mar 15, 2014

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