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Routes in The Bunker

14:59 S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Apoca-Lips Now! S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Born on the 4th of July S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Charlie Don’t Surf S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
First Blood S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Full Metal Jacket S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Fury S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Saigon S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Smear Hunter, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Trooper S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Uncommon Valor S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Valkyrie S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Equipped by: ? FFA: Mark Anderson, June 2014
Page Views: 549 total · 14/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on May 15, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a classic jughaul in the vein of Sprayathon - steep and overhanging virtually the entire way - but with a more distinct crux at 1/3-height. The first body-length roof is skirted to the left, and the second is not as difficult as it appears thanks to some clever jamming opportunities. However, getting established on the headwall immediately above may cause some trouble.

Begin from the far end of the upper-right fixed line. Work up and left up the slab, careful to skirt the X-marked death block. As the wall steepens, jugs appear where you need them, leading up and left around the first roof. Cop a quick shake at a decent stance below the intimidating ceiling. Foot trickery and trad skills will get you to the lip. Crank strenuously up a set of bottoming pods in the big, left-facing offset until it’s possible to throw a foot onto the steep slab. After a well-earned shake, crank through the pegmatite on solid-albeit-flakey jugs to reach the Gunks-like quartzite above. Race the building pump up the unbroken chain of amazing jugs, heel-hooking, toe-camming, and kneebaring along the way to reach the lip of the cave.

Location

Full Metal Jacket is just right of the center of the cave, beginning from the far right end of the upper-right fixed line. The start of the route is shared with 14:59. These routes can be belayed from the stance just below The Bottleneck from a semi-hanging belay from a 1-bolt anchor (which can be backed up with finger-sized cams) at the end of the upper-right fixed line or from a nice flat stance at the far right end of the lower-right fixed line. The latter is probably the most comfortable for all parties. It has also been done from a belay on the Dirt Ledge, but this is not recommended.

Protection

Many bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, currently all are fixed except for the first bolt (on the slab).

Photos

I was looking forward to getting on this route today, but that block that is the size of a dresser at the bottom is not even close to safe. That thing needs to be trundled. I'm definitely not climbing on this route or the 13a that shares the same start till that rig is gone. Scary! Jun 26, 2015

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