Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mark Anderson, May 2015
Page Views: 536 total · 9/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jun 12, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This epic line is perhaps the best of its grade in Clear Creek, and among the best on the Front Range. The route is pure enduro jug-hauling, remarkably continuous, with excellent rock and the best view in the cave. It seems that just about every move on this route is hard enough to be interesting, and yet there are just enough rests to keep the pump manageable. The movement is exquisite, involving wild ninja foot-trickery and big moves between big holds, culminating in several committing slaps.

Begin by stemming and slabbing straight up from the bottleneck. Surmount the steeply right-leaning dihedral with a short bit of not-too-bad Bunker weirdness. Shake on the perched slab, then punch up through the first overlap to an unusual matching pretzel sequence below the pegmatite band. Big moves clear the bulge to a good stance below the impressive final roof. Slap out the ceiling with huge spans, heel hooks and toecams, ultimately working left along pumpy slopers to reach Thank God jugs just below the lip of the cave.

Location

Front and center in the main cave, heading straight up from The Bottleneck (or, between Valkyrie and Full Metal Jacket). The FA was belayed from the Dirt Ledge with double-length slings on the first two bolts and a revolver biner on the 3rd, but the most logical belay is the stance below The Bottleneck.

Protection

9 bolts to an anchor, currently all fixed except for the two slab bolts. Bring 2-3 extender draws to mitigate rope drag.

Photos

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