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Routes in The Bunker

14:59 S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Apoca-Lips Now! S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Born on the 4th of July S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Charlie Don’t Surf S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
First Blood S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Full Metal Jacket S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Fury S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Saigon S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Smear Hunter, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Trooper S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Uncommon Valor S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Valkyrie S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mark Anderson, June 2014
Page Views: 2,125 total · 55/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on May 15, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Among the best 5.13s in Clear Creek, Apoca-Lips Now! is a classic jughaul in an airy position with magnificent stone. This climbs like a Gunks classic, surfing along a huge flake system at the lip of a massive roof. The exposure is matched only by the quality of movement.

Begin as for Saigon, climbing through the pegmatite band to a decent shake below that route’s crux. Execute Saigon’s reachy crux move, and then bust right, hooking and dangling along the lip of the ever more-exposed roof. A few sequential moves and just-neutral holds give way to increasingly larger jugs as the pump grows. Once you reach the arête, turn the corner to join Charlie, and follow the best rock in Clear Creek up the brief-yet-glorious panel to the summit.

Location

Apoca-Lips Now! traverses along the left lip of the “cave”, beginning with the first few moves of Saigon, before busting right along the lip.

It’s possible to belay from the Dirt Ledge or from a nice, large, flat ledge immediately below the route ("the observation deck"). If belaying from the Dirt Ledge, bring a couple slings for the first 1-2 bolts. To reach the base of the climb, from the Dirt Ledge, follow the lower-left fixed line to The Bottleneck, then go up the Bottle Neck to reach the upper-left fixed line. Follow this line left, surmounting a steep bit just past a 2-bolt anchor (immediately below Charlie Don’t Surf) to reach a broad sloping ledge. It’s also possible to jug directly up to the Observation Deck along a pair of old fixed lines dropping down into the gully east of the Dirt Ledge.

Protection

All fixed with steel cable draws courtesy of Keith North and Jamie G. You may want to bring a shoulder-length sling for the first bolt if you plan to belay from the Dirt Ledge.

Photos

Tank Evans
  5.12d
Tank Evans  
  5.12d
This is a pretty fun short jug haul, but I thought I should throw my 2 cents in for another perspective.

Not to be a poo-poo'er, but if you're expecting to find a classic, you will be disappointed. It's slightly chossy with only 2 real moves, sandwiched between 12a jugs. Barely a route and nowhere near the quality or difficulty of other classic CCC 13- routes.

Thanks for the time and investment putting these up though, they will be good for monkeying around on locally in the hot summer months. May 18, 2015
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.13a
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.13a
Hmmm...I disagree but like your input, Tank! I think that this is just such a unique feature to heel hook out a lip for this long. It gives you some pump and is really fun. I agree it can be a bit chossy, but the position is amazing. Maybe I'm just a sucker for climbing on lips and jugs! May 27, 2015
Tank Evans
  5.12d
Tank Evans  
  5.12d
Different strokes for different folks. Many thanks to the equipers of the steel cable draws, I am sure it's basically impossible to clean on lower otherwise. May 28, 2015
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
  5.13a
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
  5.13a
Great route for aspiring punk gym rats and wannabe thugs. Big holds and campusy moves make this one a fun one. I would say it's worth the 15 minute, steep, hillside hike up just to do this route. Get her done.... Aug 26, 2015
Josh Thompson
Golden, CO
  5.13a
Josh Thompson   Golden, CO
  5.13a
I was on Apoca-Lips Now earlier this week, and "the undercling move" (feels like the crux move, shared by both Apoca-lips now, and Saigon at the third bolt) is flexing.

My partner X'ed, to warn that the hold seems in danger of breaking. I don't reinforce holds (just a lowly sport climber), but I don't know that this hold *could* be reinforced. There's not much area around the hold that could take much glue.

If the hold breaks, unless it leaves behind an equally good hold, it will make that move significantly harder, and will probably result in both routes getting a harder grade.

Jul 5, 2017
Alex Cross
  5.13a
Alex Cross  
  5.13a
Got on this last Sunday (9/17/2017). Partner and I investigated the X'ed hold without any previous knowledge, and both couldn't understand why it was marked. As far as we could tell, there was no flex. We both worked the moves, pulled on that thing a handful of times, and used it for our send goes. Perhaps our beta to get into the hold was different and put less downward force on the hold?

We both agreed that this felt soft to us for a 13a. The crux is likely in the V6/7 range, but the rest of the climbing is on jugs, except for a few moves. Only other 13a I've done in CC was Sonic Youth, and this didn't feel as difficult to me. Would give this a slash 12d/13a if the grade existed.

Regardless, it was a very fun climb with some chossy feet at the crux depending on your beta, but all the hands are bomber. Sep 19, 2017

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