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Routes in The Bunker

14:59 S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Apoca-Lips Now! S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Born on the 4th of July S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Charlie Don’t Surf S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
First Blood S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Full Metal Jacket S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Fury S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Saigon S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Smear Hunter, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Trooper S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Uncommon Valor S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Valkyrie S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Kevin Capps
Page Views: 372 total, 17/month
Shared By: Kevin Capps on Feb 29, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This was one of the original lines on the wall, before the more classic variation, Apoca-Lips Now!, was added. After pulling the short-lived roof crux, continue straight up with easier face climbing. The overhanging section and the crux are really fun and worthy of the hike up to The Bunker.

Protection

Bolts and anchor.

Photos

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Josh Thompson
Golden, CO
  5.12c/d
Josh Thompson   Golden, CO
  5.12c/d
Oh, fantastic to know, Kevin. Climbing is funny... I can't imagine doing the move w/o the undercling. I'm def. on the shorter side though (~5'6"), so that *might* account for our different sequences.

Thanks for the info! Jul 12, 2017
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
 
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
 
I have done the route without using the undercling. If it goes, it's okay. If someone reinforces the hold, that's fine too. Jul 5, 2017
Josh Thompson
Golden, CO
  5.12c/d
Josh Thompson   Golden, CO
  5.12c/d
I was on Apoca-Lips Now earlier this week, and "the undercling move" (feels like the crux move, shared by both Apoca-lips now, and Saigon at the third bolt) is flexing.

My partner X'ed, to warn that the hold seems in danger of breaking. I don't reinforce holds (just a lowly sport climber), but I don't know that this hold *could* be reinforced. There's not much area around the hold that could take much glue.

If the hold breaks, unless it leaves behind an equally good hold, it will make that move significantly harder and will probably result in both routes getting a harder grade.

Jul 5, 2017